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<p>[QUOTE="geekpryde, post: 2011375, member: 36248"]I wanted to update this a bit. I have some new coins, one in particular is quite "rare", but of low value. Good for me, since I got to buy it. Still a bit confusing to me why my 1907 IHC is so darn cheap, but as Doug and others pointed out, rarity does not equal $$$.</p><p><br /></p><p>Instead of using PCGS & NGC guide values, I decided to use my <u>purchase price</u>*, assuming that is a better reflection of street price.</p><p><br /></p><p>I than calculated the <b>Price PER <b>Rarity Units</b></b>. I'm looking for my coins with the best bang for the buck, so to speak.</p><p><br /></p><p>Coins in Green are relatively cheap for their rarity. Coins in Red are expensive for their rarity. Another way of saying it, green coins are unpopular and the prices are depressed for how rare they are, and red coins are popular and you need to pony up the cash, even if they are somewhat common.</p><p><br /></p><p>For the Gold coins, Precious Metal cost is a big factor.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]362517[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>So, my really excellent value coins are the 1907 IHC, very high rarity, very low cost. A new 1925 Capped Bust Dime from [USER=44004]@Mainebill[/USER], my Lincoln wheat cent, my Barber Half Dollar, and a few others.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you exclude the gold coins, and look for expensive coins for the rarity, the Jefferson error coin 1943/2 jumps right out at $156 per unit of PCGS rarity!</p><p><br /></p><p>Anyway, this is not very useful for most member here, but it was fun, and it reinforces a concept that Newbies may not understand when it comes to coins: <b>Rarity is NOT the primary factor in value / price.</b></p><p><br /></p><p><font size="4">*I used Coinfacts pricing for the 1907 IHC I bought raw as a kid.</font>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="geekpryde, post: 2011375, member: 36248"]I wanted to update this a bit. I have some new coins, one in particular is quite "rare", but of low value. Good for me, since I got to buy it. Still a bit confusing to me why my 1907 IHC is so darn cheap, but as Doug and others pointed out, rarity does not equal $$$. Instead of using PCGS & NGC guide values, I decided to use my [U]purchase price[/U]*, assuming that is a better reflection of street price. I than calculated the [B]Price PER [B]Rarity Units[/B][/B]. I'm looking for my coins with the best bang for the buck, so to speak. Coins in Green are relatively cheap for their rarity. Coins in Red are expensive for their rarity. Another way of saying it, green coins are unpopular and the prices are depressed for how rare they are, and red coins are popular and you need to pony up the cash, even if they are somewhat common. For the Gold coins, Precious Metal cost is a big factor. [ATTACH=full]362517[/ATTACH] So, my really excellent value coins are the 1907 IHC, very high rarity, very low cost. A new 1925 Capped Bust Dime from [USER=44004]@Mainebill[/USER], my Lincoln wheat cent, my Barber Half Dollar, and a few others. If you exclude the gold coins, and look for expensive coins for the rarity, the Jefferson error coin 1943/2 jumps right out at $156 per unit of PCGS rarity! Anyway, this is not very useful for most member here, but it was fun, and it reinforces a concept that Newbies may not understand when it comes to coins: [B]Rarity is NOT the primary factor in value / price.[/B] [SIZE=4]*I used Coinfacts pricing for the 1907 IHC I bought raw as a kid.[/SIZE][/QUOTE]
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