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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Hobo, post: 1326113, member: 11521&quot;]$10 is not a bad price for that lot. I have been known to pay $10 for one coin like you have so I would have an example of a particular kind of counterfeit.</p><p><br /></p><p>The best advice I can give you is to get education and experience. Learn what the genuine coins should look like. Learn how genuine coins were and are made. Learn how counterfeit coins were and are made. Go to coin shops and coin shows and look at hundreds and hundreds of genuine coins so you know what the genuine coins should look like. Once you have this knowledge and experience then it will be easier for you to spot fakes like these. </p><p><br /></p><p>For example, like was pointed out above, the genuine Ellis Island coin was not dated 1906; it was dated 1986. That is a dead giveaway. Also, reeding was not used on Silver Dollars until the 1830s; Silver Dollars struck before 1804 (no Silver Dollars were struck from 1804 to 1835) have a lettered edge. If your 1800 Silver Dollar has a reeded edge that is a dead giveaway that it is counterfeit. </p><p><br /></p><p>Now is a good time to start your counterfeit detection education. Read your Red Book. (You DO have a Red Book don&#039;t you?) Learn how coins were and are made. Learn what you can about detecting counterfeit coins. (ANA offers courses in Counterfeit Detection at their annual Summer Seminar. I have taken that course twice and highly recommend it.) </p><p><br /></p><p>Good luck and don&#039;t take any plugged nickels.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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