Norway 1918/16 25 Øre

Discussion in 'World Coins' started by KurtS, Oct 9, 2015.

  1. KurtS

    KurtS Die variety collector

    Thanks to a friend, I've added this nice overdate to my collection. It's a strong overdate--easily visible despite some wear and corrosion:

    [​IMG]

    The markers match those on my reference photo:

    [​IMG]

    While this overdate is often listed as 1918/6, it is actually a 1918/16--since the last two digits were repunched. By this time, dies used at the Kongsberg mint had the first two digits on the hub. Here, it's straightforward to assume that both digits were part of a single punch used to update the die.

    Thanks again Numismat! :D
     
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  3. Paddy54

    Paddy54 Well-Known Member

    Another Hawk eye collector..... Kurt you're amazing when it comes to Variety collecting .:peeking::watching::eggface::wideyed: Nice find my friend .
     
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  4. Aidan_()

    Aidan_() Numismatic Contributor

    Excellent overdate Kurt. ;)
     
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  5. KurtS

    KurtS Die variety collector

    Thanks! I should clarify--this was a gift, a friend found it.
     
  6. Paddy54

    Paddy54 Well-Known Member

    Well in that case you suck......lol J/K
     
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  7. Numismat

    Numismat World coin enthusiast

    Nice shots! My photos never come out this good with small details, like overdates :)
     
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  8. KurtS

    KurtS Die variety collector

    Thanks...I am pushing maximum resolution on a 36mpx camera with a very sharp macro lens. And circulated silver is one of the harder surfaces to photograph--a lot of reflective details can distract. I should have posted the full-size closeup of the overdate:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2015
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  9. swamp yankee

    swamp yankee Well-Known Member

    Great find "eagle-eye"congrats
     
  10. mlov43

    mlov43 주화 수집가

    What was your imaging set up (camera, etc)?
     
  11. KurtS

    KurtS Die variety collector

    I use a Nikon D810 body with a 60mm micro lens. When I shoot, the camera is on a copy stand and controlled remotely by computer software to minimize camera shake. I also use focus stacking of several images, combined into one final image for maximum sharpness.
     
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