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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Troodon, post: 26325397, member: 4626&quot;]I&#039;d imagine silver would react very differently, and wouldn&#039;t recommend using nic-a-date on them.&nbsp; Type I &amp; II Standing Liberty quarters had a tendency to end up dateless with enough circulation wear; in 1925 they recessed the date on the coin more (creating Type III) which tended to protect the date from wear a lot better.</p><p><br /></p><p>Coins passed to me by my parents had a nearly dateless SLQ in it but with careful examination and looking at it from several angles, I was able to figure out it was a 1924.</p><p><br /></p><p>Side note, my most recent buffalo nickel find from hunting nickels just barely had the date visible, but I was able to just barely see it was a 1928-D.</p><p><br /></p><p>I often see stores with dateless buffaloes selling them for around 25 to 50 cents each.&nbsp; (They can be especially cheap in bulk.)&nbsp; Cheap way to get some album fillers to use nic-a-date on.&nbsp; I think most TPGs will accept nic-a-dated nickels, label them as damaged, but give a net grade still.&nbsp; Only worth it for some key or semi-key dates though.&nbsp; There&#039;s probably a few key or semi-key ones out there in dateless condition; always worth checking if they have a mintmark.</p><p><br /></p><p>Nickels is still something I have fun hunting, as it&#039;s reasonably cheap and there&#039;s still a good chance of finding things worth the time of searching.&nbsp; I kind of feel when I get to the point of buying specific issues I probably want to aim for better condition.&nbsp; Still, if I see a good bulk deal on dateless buffaloes, I might try it out![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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