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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Lehigh96, post: 4973030, member: 15309&quot;]While the first instinct of a reader is to challenge this advice by claiming that one should &quot;buy the coin and not the holder&quot; I have found that both things are true.&nbsp; Phil didn&#039;t say that there aren&#039;t nice coins in ICG or ANACS holders, he merely pointed out the FACT that you can&#039;t sell them for the same prices that you can NGC or PCGS holdered coins.&nbsp; My experience tells me that they usually realize the retail price of one grade lower than what is on their label.&nbsp; For example, consider the 1938-S Jefferson Nickel shown below.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ff5xZEs.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>I purchased this coin for $37.50 and cracked it out of the ICG holder.&nbsp; The PCGS Price Guide for the 1938-S in MS66 is $45.&nbsp; I then sent the coin to NGC for grading costing me $20.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8CYvkIp.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>After successfully crossing the coin to NGC at MS67, I was able to sell the coin for $178 which is above the greysheet value of $170.</p><p><br /></p><p>This is an anecdotal example that shows that ICG plastic simply doesn&#039;t command the same prices as NGC or PCGS and that if you purchase these coins you are going to be very disappointed when it comes time to sell unless you are prepared to spend the additional money to cross the coins into PCGS or NGC plastic.&nbsp; And this is where the &quot;buy the coin not the holder&quot; comes into play.&nbsp; Do you have the grading skill to evaluate an ICG or ANACS coin and correctly predict when it will cross into PCGS or NGC plastic.&nbsp; If the answer is NO, then you probably should just stick to buying NGC or PCGS coins to begin with.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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