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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Insider, post: 2833415, member: 24314&quot;]TheMont, posted: &quot;And I&#039;ll say it again, you need to have a coin in your hands before you can tell if it is genuine, <b>a picture, not matter how good, is not enough to tell unless the coin is a really poor counterfeit</b>.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 179)">No disrespect here but I strongly disagree with MOST of this statement. On a scale of 1 -10 your counterfeit is a 6.&nbsp; It can be detected by a photo IF the authenticator has a diagnostic file to match up PMD that was transferred to the fake die and then to all the fakes struck from it.&nbsp; A skilled authenticator can see things in images that others cannot.</span></p><p><br /></p><p>&quot;It fooled me, several dealers and every coin club member who looked it over.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 179)">I doubt ANY of these folks could get a job at a major TPGS.</span></p><p><br /></p><p>&quot;I posted pictures of an Athenia Owl that a good friend took and they were excellent shots. Half of the ancients guys were sure it was fake and half thought it was genuine. It caused quite a back and forth. It turned out to be genuine.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 179)">Since NGC slabbed it, I&#039;ll defer to their opinion.&nbsp; Just know that there were characteristics of a cast counterfeit plainly visible on your coin.&nbsp; Most obvious were the raised, round, lumps in the recesses of the head.&nbsp; The crystallization looked &quot;funny&quot; too.&nbsp; Nevertheless, the ancient is an example of a coin that should not be authenticated by photos. </span></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Michael K, posted: &quot;Again, the key markers are the die cracks on the reverse and the 10 degree counter clockwise reverse die rotation. People are fixated on the obverse, but the tell tale authentic signs are on the reverse of this coin.&quot;</p><p><br /></p><p>I will repeat:&nbsp; <b>Lincoln Cent Resource:&quot;<i>Check for two faint die scratches leading downward from the left bar of the T in Cent to establish authenticity</i>&quot;-The CherryPickers Guide Fourth Edition Vol. 1 pg. 122.&nbsp; The reverse is also slightly rotated counterclockwise about 10 deg. </b></p><p><br /></p><p>I doubt the counterfeiters are getting the die cracks and the reverse die rotation correct.</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 179)">I was going to blast this post before doing some research.&nbsp; It turns out that A VERY FEW of these coins do have die breaks.&nbsp; Examples of this are very rare!&nbsp; What the writer is possibly calling a die break is a &quot;broken&quot; scratch in the die (commonly seen on the reverse at five o&#039;clock between the stalk and the rim.</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 179)"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 179)">BTW, any decent C/F will pick up the die breaks on a coin.&nbsp; So far, the mark I&#039;ve described has not been &quot;picked-up&quot; on decent counterfeits.</span></p><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 179)"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #ff0000">Hey TheMont, WHAT&#039;S GOING ON WITH THAT ANCIENT?&nbsp; TWO DIFFERENT COINS! </span>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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