NGC 1881 morgan dollar. reverse is not straight with obverse. Fake? Error? Help

Thank you. Unfortunately, it's not a good photo , but I get the picture .

 

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Being a mechanic, tools are my thing. And that tool is darn awesome. I googled Terry and e-mailed him as soon as I saw that.
How on earth have I not heard you refer to that before? Oh and your keys aren't broken. Some of us are listening.:thumb:

 

There really never was a situation that required mentioning it. As a matter of fact, when I looked through my photo archive, I couldn't find it, but I knew that I had posted the photos on the NGC forum about 5 years ago. So, I located it over there, and copied it back to my files.

Back to the clash tool.......

I learned about the tool when I purchased Mark Kimpton's book, Elite Clashed Morgan Dollars. It was mentioned, and gave Terry's e-mail address for anyone interested in buying it.

First of all, the primary purpose of this tool is to enable Morgan collectors to actually see which elements of the obverse and reverse designs are responsible for the clashes, and some of those clashes can an do occur when the dies have rotated. The tool makes it very easy to see these clashes and position the tool correctly to compute the amount of rotation.

In my photos, you can see what looks like the denticles around the rim. Those are actually hashmarks spaced in 2.4 degree increments. You will also see a long hashmark extending to the edge of the tool at the 12 o'clock position. There is also one on the reverse at the 6 o'clock position. When they are aligned, they represent the correct positions of the obverse and reverse for normal coins. Then, all you have to do is rotate one side or the other to the position shown on an actual coin, count the number of hashmarks and multiply by 2.4 degrees. Some people may wonder, "Why 2.4 degrees? Why not 1 degree or 2 degrees?" The reason is that smaller increments would be so close together that they would likely "bleed" into one another.

If you order one, there is something that I should warn you about. After receiving mine, I had to soak them in hot water to remove the paper which Terry had placed between the two discs before riveting them together. I guess he figured it would keep the two discs from scratching one another prior to selling them. Anyway, I gave him a heads-up on how hard it was to remove the paper, so I don't know if he is still doing that.

Chris