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<p>[QUOTE="FadeToBlack, post: 1585677, member: 39705"]I look for silver, proofs, certain years NIFC (IE; '87 Halves, later current halves ('11, '12)), and errors (Strike-through, clips, etc.)</p><p><br /></p><p>When searching for silver, I will stop at anything that catches my eye or ear, and give it a closer look. Otherwise, I toss it in. I've undoubtedly missed errors from time to time, but it's just part of the game. With stuff like nickels, you can actually learn to differentiate era's of production by strike and quality characteristics. Look at the reverse of a nickel from, say 1987, then from the 1950's or 1940's... the reverses are remarkably different, even when you compare uncirculated examples.</p><p><br /></p><p>I don't really keep moderns unless they're exceptionally nice. All silver and older stuff for me. New crap is just waaaaay too common... save 2009's, I keep 2009's, lol.</p><p><br /></p><p>I do keep copper cents. I hoard 'em in bags, must have $400 face by now.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="FadeToBlack, post: 1585677, member: 39705"]I look for silver, proofs, certain years NIFC (IE; '87 Halves, later current halves ('11, '12)), and errors (Strike-through, clips, etc.) When searching for silver, I will stop at anything that catches my eye or ear, and give it a closer look. Otherwise, I toss it in. I've undoubtedly missed errors from time to time, but it's just part of the game. With stuff like nickels, you can actually learn to differentiate era's of production by strike and quality characteristics. Look at the reverse of a nickel from, say 1987, then from the 1950's or 1940's... the reverses are remarkably different, even when you compare uncirculated examples. I don't really keep moderns unless they're exceptionally nice. All silver and older stuff for me. New crap is just waaaaay too common... save 2009's, I keep 2009's, lol. I do keep copper cents. I hoard 'em in bags, must have $400 face by now.[/QUOTE]
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