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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;RedTiger, post: 644167, member: 19098&quot;]There are several levels of fakes. The lowest are those made for the souvenir shops, pot metal, often cast with a seam, even most novices can spot these. Next level up is die struck, sometimes real silver, sometimes not. Sometimes these have incorrect die pairings such as using the 1921 reverse on the pre-1905 coins. </p><p><br /></p><p>For the key dates, the better dates, the fakes can be very deceptive, as the intent is to fool, and the audience is tougher to fool. These will be die struck, 90% silver, correct weight. Sometimes the minor details such as the denticles or other small details are off. These will vary in quality, and the very best will fool many.</p><p><br /></p><p>It is worth noting that they are also making fake slabs as well. Fake coins in fake slabs, real coins in fake slabs at a higher grade are gold mines for counterfeiters. The profit per piece can be huge. Some of the early fake slabs had minor flaws in font or bar code, or spacing. It is likely that these obvious visual flaws have now been fixed and the fake slabs are now 99.9% visually the same as the real ones.</p><p><br /></p><p>For someone in South Korea, collecting Morgans it is an uphill battle. Many reputable U. S. dealers will not want to ship there. If they do, it will cost. A decent scale and some books will help against the lower tiers of fakes, but it literally takes years of education to filter out the better fakes. For the average collector it is not a realistic option. Perhaps 5% of collectors can authenticate and most of them have a decade or more of experience. It is more like 0.001% that can do so with absolute confidence.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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