Message:

<p>[QUOTE=&quot;beef1020, post: 1767864, member: 24544&quot;]First off, sorry for reviving an old thread but I just found it with the search.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>You have the basic idea down on how to grade it, but I think your sharpness grade for the obverse is too low, for interesting reasons.&nbsp; With coins like these where there is a massive die failure the strike pressure is less than normal and uneven.&nbsp; This causes the details to be weak as the portion of the die which fell away does not strike the coins, and the metal on the rest of the coins does not flow as normal.&nbsp; The lack of details is not due to wear, so strictly speaking it has a higher grade than a similar coin with the same level of detail. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>I would put the obverse at around a f12 or 10 just as the reverse, there is quite a bit of hair detail and if you account for the poor strike I think around 10 is pretty close.&nbsp; From there you net for problems which I find totally personal.&nbsp; Some people hate rim issues and deduct a lot but don&#039;t mind scratches and deduct a little or vise versa.&nbsp; I personally don&#039;t like surface environmental damage and realize some amount of damage is most likely going to occur on a coin circulated as heavily as yours, so those rim dings don&#039;t bother me.&nbsp; I would say 10 net 7.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Very cool coin, and illustrative of what makes grading early large cents so hard.&nbsp; You can&#039;t just look at the details, to a certain extent you have to factor in the variety to get a grade.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

Your name or email address:

Do you already have an account?

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

Stay logged in