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<p>[QUOTE="nerosmyfavorite68, post: 26613084, member: 134416"]My new photography station provided me with a better workspace and more light. The above pics were actually large breakthroughs. I discovered that on my Samsung Note 20 Ultra's manual mode, the focus was still on auto. Changing it to manual helped.</p><p><br /></p><p>I get the photography terms mixed up. Is the 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, etc number the f-stop? I kept the ISO at 80, which is what I use on people, and for the very dark coins, I bumped up the exposure.</p><p><br /></p><p>In all cases the 0.4 number provided the best focus (the green highlights were the strongest and I could see that the preview was more in focus. I'm not sure if I have to manually fiddle with that every time to achieve focus, as a small provincial was fuzzy after I kept it on the smae number and didn't fiddle. </p><p><br /></p><p>A true breakthrough won't happen until I get a lightbox, but I'm not good at DIY. It'd also be expensive to get a macro lens for my Sony alpha 77, and although the camera takes pin-sharp detail, it's an old camera, and the next camera I'd get would be a canon or Nikon so I could use more lenses.</p><p><br /></p><p>As I don't acquire many unphotographed coins it doesn't make a lot of sense to invest a lot of money into it. Like with the junky coins, even the best photographer in the world couldn't make them look super-great.</p><p><br /></p><p>The obverse of the A2 is wayyy more faint in person.</p><p><br /></p><p>I've kind of missed the window for photography today. I only like to try (and I still wear gloves) when my hands are very dry, and that's only a small window of time. I'm less strict on AV and AR, but I don't like to handle AE's otherwise.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="nerosmyfavorite68, post: 26613084, member: 134416"]My new photography station provided me with a better workspace and more light. The above pics were actually large breakthroughs. I discovered that on my Samsung Note 20 Ultra's manual mode, the focus was still on auto. Changing it to manual helped. I get the photography terms mixed up. Is the 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, etc number the f-stop? I kept the ISO at 80, which is what I use on people, and for the very dark coins, I bumped up the exposure. In all cases the 0.4 number provided the best focus (the green highlights were the strongest and I could see that the preview was more in focus. I'm not sure if I have to manually fiddle with that every time to achieve focus, as a small provincial was fuzzy after I kept it on the smae number and didn't fiddle. A true breakthrough won't happen until I get a lightbox, but I'm not good at DIY. It'd also be expensive to get a macro lens for my Sony alpha 77, and although the camera takes pin-sharp detail, it's an old camera, and the next camera I'd get would be a canon or Nikon so I could use more lenses. As I don't acquire many unphotographed coins it doesn't make a lot of sense to invest a lot of money into it. Like with the junky coins, even the best photographer in the world couldn't make them look super-great. The obverse of the A2 is wayyy more faint in person. I've kind of missed the window for photography today. I only like to try (and I still wear gloves) when my hands are very dry, and that's only a small window of time. I'm less strict on AV and AR, but I don't like to handle AE's otherwise.[/QUOTE]
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