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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Tom B, post: 1570158, member: 11854&quot;]I&#039;ve recommended to folks many times that ANACS certified coins are often looked at as being either raw or as a problem coin when the time comes to sell.&nbsp; Others may disagree, but this has been my experience as a full-time dealer of type coins.&nbsp; As for certification so as to indicate that these may be better coins; I do not necessarily like this idea.&nbsp; The best way to make certain folks realize what coins are better is to either educate them or to leave detailed, clear instructions attached to the album that the coins are stored in and then to go over these directions with whomever would be responsible for the album.</p><p><br /></p><p>I gave more brief thoughts the first time, but will go into more details here.&nbsp; The RE half dollar is a VF/EF coin and <i>not </i> a possible AU coin.&nbsp; I would grade it as a Ch VF and the possible rim ding really hurts the coin if it is, indeed, a rim ding.&nbsp; The die marriage is a GR-17 and this is an R1, which means it is common and carries no die marriage premium.&nbsp; Coins like this are generally around $150, perhaps less with the possible rim ding.&nbsp; The 1877 Trade dollar looks like an EF to me, but I am somewhat afraid of this coin because the lighting is picking up a few too many obverse hairlines to make me feel comfortable with the surfaces.&nbsp; As a problem-free coin this is about a $200 piece, but if the hairlines are too much and it gets put into a problem holder then the value, obviously, will be hurt.&nbsp; The 1882-CC Morgan dollar appears to be a Ch F to me, but this coin has a very flat price structure and most circulated pieces are $75-$90.&nbsp; If I am interpreting the images correctly, I like the look of the 1902 Barber quarter and think it a VF/EF piece.&nbsp; This puts its value at $50 or thereabouts.&nbsp; The 1914-D Lincoln cent is obviously a better date and has the details of a G4 or so, but the surfaces look a little scuffy.&nbsp; Of course, this may simply be due to the lighting.&nbsp; If it has nice surfaces then it may well be worth upwards of $200 or a bit less.</p><p><br /></p><p>For me, the individual value of each coin is low enough so that the cost of certification eats into the overall value at too high of a percentage, especially if any of these coins come back in a problem holder.&nbsp; The option of ANACS is not attractive to me because I always try to look at downstream sales and the market does not embrace ANACS to the same extent, in my opinion.&nbsp; Others may think that spending approximately 10% of the value of the coins is a good investment for somewhat common coinage, but to me it is too much.&nbsp; Again, it may be worth it to you, but you asked for advice in my advice would be to keep them raw and educate those who may be responsible for the coins or albums in the future.&nbsp; Good luck.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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