I just picked this up knowing it was an impossible coin. I posted it on the Under $50 thread, but I thought I might find some experts here. Is it counterfeit? Probably. But how and why? It has several errors, most notably a bold clash from the obverse on the revere. Another similar clash looking up at the eagle's belly. Perhaps someone can help identify and quantify the errors and whether the dies are found on legitimate strikes or completely new.
WOW! You are right! This is not a genuine coin. Thanks for posting the photos and giving us all a learning experience.
Look for tooling marks, it's probably a 3 turned into an 8. Edit I just checked VAM world and couldn't find any clashed dies, also It is nearly impossible to have that heavy of a clash and not see any evidence of the clash on the obv. No doubt an impossible coin. But, it is not a fantasy O/S either.
Cmon guys, It’s obviously one of those fantasy overstrike token things. No counterfeit here because 1928 Ds don’t exist right... Now left to wonder if it was intended to fool a numismatist or if it was meant to live a life of circulation. Cool pick up. Hopefully the price was close to the spot for silver if it’s in fact silver.
$10 plus $4 postage, so close enough. This particular seller did not seem to even be aware of it's potential numismatic status, so any deception would likely have been by a previous seller or sellers. I didn't even notice the clashes at first thinking it was a wrong photo situation. But the clashes pretty well indicate it is the coin and not a photo mixup. If it is a token, I would expect more out there, but who knows? ps As I've looked at the clashes, I'm now leaning toward the "second" clash which appeared to be another denomination, as actually being the back of the head of the primary clash which just looks like a face.
I'll be sure to post higher resolution photos and edge shots when it arrives. I need to rule out electrotypes of different obverse and reverse combinations as well as two ground down coins cemented together. The weight should also be helpful in tracking down the production process and material used. Anyone with Die Marker knowledge of this series could be invaluable in determining whether these are copies or molds of existing dies or new dies like the counterfeits now coming in from China, many of which can now fool the TPGs. The counterfeiters have really stepped up their game.
It's definitely fake or counterfeit whichever you prefer to call it. Always check VAMworld.com to learn the diagnostics of a genuine coin. Also make sure they minted that particular year at whatever mint mark it has. No D's in 1928. Weight is important to check also. Note how the tiara rays are separated from the tiara above the forehead. This is a characteristic of a counterfeit. The mushy appearance and letter size is a good indication of counterfeits. For 1928 P, there are three VAM's with sub varieties. I recommend every collector, young or old or even me to learn die characteristics for the coin they want to purchase. Even the minute die gouges in protected areas on worn coins. I have seen a complete date and mint mark set of counterfeit Morgan dollars. So study, study, study. Happy hunting.
I don't think it looks like a clash. Maybe it was struck over a real peace dollar leaving the ghost-like image of the original in the fields.
There is always the chance the seller mistakenly dropped in a photo of another reverse. ( maybe a 22D) Is this a eBay buy? The reverse does show all the signs of a major clash, the spike on eagle right shoulder, the squiggly thingy thru rays by the olive leaves, check mark looking gizzy left of upper back shoulder. The obverse does not show signs of clash that I can see. Just a thought...... Interesting!
I just got a new pocket piece/conversation starter. It was cleaned, probably with copper cleaner and needs retoning badly.
A mushy appearance can be evidence of either a counterfeit or out of focus images. I'll know more about several of these when the coin arrives. I appreciate all suggestions about what to look for and where. It will give me help when I determine what shots to take when it arrives.
Do weight, pictures of the rim and some clear surface shots. Confirm if you see any raised metal lumps in the fields. JPL