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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;John Burgess, post: 5245461, member: 105098&quot;]Photograde doesn&#039;t do the state quarters or the parks quarters.</p><p><br /></p><p>The obverse (washington side) is the same, this can be graded pretty standard from issue to issue. HOWEVER the reverse doesn&#039;t run that kind of operation. </p><p><br /></p><p>You can use this generalization for information on how to gauge basically any coin, the problem with the quarters arises with the multitude of reverse designs.</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="https://www.pcgs.com/eyeappeal" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.pcgs.com/eyeappeal" rel="nofollow">https://www.pcgs.com/eyeappeal</a></p><p><br /></p><p>As far as I am aware, there isn&#039;t a single resource for quarters since 1999 but you can find info for specific designs on the internet with enough digging. </p><p><br /></p><p>generally speaking on the obverse the high point are washingtons cheek and around his ear area.&nbsp; the reverse,,,, well there&#039;s over 100 designs between the two series, so the idea is more about finding coins with great luster, well struck and that are as mark free as possible under 5X magnification, but that&#039;s general rule of thumb for looking for any high grade coin. </p><p><br /></p><p>Grading is subjective anyways, my MS67 might be a MS65 to someone else, someone else&#039;s 65 might be a MS63 to me, 3rd party grading companies aren&#039;t much better than that either really, just another persons opinion. </p><p>Below can be used for the obverse the high points are the high points. in reality the rim is actually the highest point on a quarter and a good first place to look for wear and if it&#039;s well struck and centered.</p><p>The reverse will need to be on a case by case basis do to the varying designs.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]1218356[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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