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<p>[QUOTE="TypeCoin971793, post: 3046150, member: 78244"]You bring up a lot of interesting points, Doug.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>This “patina” is incredibly hard to fake correctly, which is why it is a method of authentication. Crusty painas like that on the Bowers spade usually mean the coin is authentic because it is less attractive than smooth, monocolor patinas. Ugly/random/crusty patina usually means authentic in Chinese numismatics, so I have grown fond of that look because it almost always bodes well. I love greed/red/pink combinations, while [USER=87271]@AnYangMan[/USER] falls in love with any patina with blue in it. </p><p><br /></p><p>There are few details to see with early Chinese coins, so there are much fewer times that cleaning is needed to see what is on the coin. The calligraphy is often fine and beautiful, but the way it is written lends itself to be seen through thick patina. Roman/Greek coins are appreciated for their artistry and attention to fine detail, which is why heavy patina/encrustations are frowned upon.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Exactly. I pass on almost every “perfect” specimen I see. But there is also a stylistic aspect to authenticating coins, and much of the time the counterfiters do not get the style right. Put just like with modern coins, originality is preferred, and coins stripped down to the bare surface sell for less on the market than those with their patina intact.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Yeah, this is a grey area. Usually, the provenance will help determine the authenticity of a coin, but many Chinese coins come without a solid provenance. The strength of the seller’s guarantee also helps. In the case of Bob Reis and Scott Semans (for example), they will guarantee the authenticity of their coins for as long as they live.</p><p><br /></p><p>The way I go about authenticating Chinese coins is to start with my gut feeling. If I get a good vibe from the coin, I will try to find aspects that will prove it to be fake. If I get a bad vibe, I see if there is enough evidence to prove it is genuine (but usually I just pass so I do not have to worry).</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Metallurgical analysis. That is really the only way.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>That is perfectly understandable. Collecting Chinese coins involves a completely different mindset.</p><p><br /></p><p>I appreciate tetradrachms just as much as I would a nice knife, but for different reasons. But both have a history, beauty, and a mystique about them, which is the reason why we collect these ancients in the first place.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="TypeCoin971793, post: 3046150, member: 78244"]You bring up a lot of interesting points, Doug. This “patina” is incredibly hard to fake correctly, which is why it is a method of authentication. Crusty painas like that on the Bowers spade usually mean the coin is authentic because it is less attractive than smooth, monocolor patinas. Ugly/random/crusty patina usually means authentic in Chinese numismatics, so I have grown fond of that look because it almost always bodes well. I love greed/red/pink combinations, while [USER=87271]@AnYangMan[/USER] falls in love with any patina with blue in it. There are few details to see with early Chinese coins, so there are much fewer times that cleaning is needed to see what is on the coin. The calligraphy is often fine and beautiful, but the way it is written lends itself to be seen through thick patina. Roman/Greek coins are appreciated for their artistry and attention to fine detail, which is why heavy patina/encrustations are frowned upon. Exactly. I pass on almost every “perfect” specimen I see. But there is also a stylistic aspect to authenticating coins, and much of the time the counterfiters do not get the style right. Put just like with modern coins, originality is preferred, and coins stripped down to the bare surface sell for less on the market than those with their patina intact. Yeah, this is a grey area. Usually, the provenance will help determine the authenticity of a coin, but many Chinese coins come without a solid provenance. The strength of the seller’s guarantee also helps. In the case of Bob Reis and Scott Semans (for example), they will guarantee the authenticity of their coins for as long as they live. The way I go about authenticating Chinese coins is to start with my gut feeling. If I get a good vibe from the coin, I will try to find aspects that will prove it to be fake. If I get a bad vibe, I see if there is enough evidence to prove it is genuine (but usually I just pass so I do not have to worry). Metallurgical analysis. That is really the only way. That is perfectly understandable. Collecting Chinese coins involves a completely different mindset. I appreciate tetradrachms just as much as I would a nice knife, but for different reasons. But both have a history, beauty, and a mystique about them, which is the reason why we collect these ancients in the first place.[/QUOTE]
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