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<p>[QUOTE="rmpsrpms, post: 4073097, member: 31773"]Actually, I am a student of Ansel Adams (not literally, I never met the man), and pretty much everything I wrote above is consistent with his Zone System, but done with the digital histogram rather than with exposure masking. You can of course go even farther and use HDR multishot techniques, but so far I have not been impressed with the results of any HDR coin image I've taken. The software tends to over-process for sharpness and microcontrast, creating false details and dramatic tone structures which are very unnatural.</p><p><br /></p><p>“I believe the electronic image will be the next major advance. Such systems will have their own inherent and inescapable structural characteristics, and the artist and functional practitioner will again strive to comprehend and control them.” ~ Ansel Adams</p><p><br /></p><p>Unfortunately, Adams didn't have opportunity to explore the above, but if he did he would have found that his famous advice to "expose for shadows, develop for highlights" must be inverted for digital due to the differences between film and sensor. Film has more of a hard-stop in the shadows due to sensitivity limitations, and is more forgiving in the highlights, while digital sensors are exact opposite. Thus for digital, the advice is "expose for highlights, process for shadows". The analog nature of film still gives some wiggle room in the over-exposed highlights, but digital sensors have a hard-stop. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Folks giving that advice are probably still thinking of the film days. Unfortunately you can never fully recover over-exposure, even when shooting RAW. There are post-processing techniques, often called "highlight recovery" or similar, which attempt to reduce the damage by grabbing colors from adjacent areas which were not over-exposed, but all they can do is try to fix the color problems. There are even a couple AI-based programs which will try to put details back into the blown highlights, but those almost always look phony. Lost details due to over-exposure are lost forever.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="rmpsrpms, post: 4073097, member: 31773"]Actually, I am a student of Ansel Adams (not literally, I never met the man), and pretty much everything I wrote above is consistent with his Zone System, but done with the digital histogram rather than with exposure masking. You can of course go even farther and use HDR multishot techniques, but so far I have not been impressed with the results of any HDR coin image I've taken. The software tends to over-process for sharpness and microcontrast, creating false details and dramatic tone structures which are very unnatural. “I believe the electronic image will be the next major advance. Such systems will have their own inherent and inescapable structural characteristics, and the artist and functional practitioner will again strive to comprehend and control them.” ~ Ansel Adams Unfortunately, Adams didn't have opportunity to explore the above, but if he did he would have found that his famous advice to "expose for shadows, develop for highlights" must be inverted for digital due to the differences between film and sensor. Film has more of a hard-stop in the shadows due to sensitivity limitations, and is more forgiving in the highlights, while digital sensors are exact opposite. Thus for digital, the advice is "expose for highlights, process for shadows". The analog nature of film still gives some wiggle room in the over-exposed highlights, but digital sensors have a hard-stop. Folks giving that advice are probably still thinking of the film days. Unfortunately you can never fully recover over-exposure, even when shooting RAW. There are post-processing techniques, often called "highlight recovery" or similar, which attempt to reduce the damage by grabbing colors from adjacent areas which were not over-exposed, but all they can do is try to fix the color problems. There are even a couple AI-based programs which will try to put details back into the blown highlights, but those almost always look phony. Lost details due to over-exposure are lost forever.[/QUOTE]
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