Just got mine in today. Had to install the drivers from the disc before it would read the camera (I am running Win 7). Not bad for thirty bucks. Here's a couple of real quick pictures with some stuff sitting on my desk, only thing I'm not super impressed with is the color. I'll adjust the color in photoshop tomorrow and see what I can come up with.
Try to use diffuse lighting. I found that it really helped with the color situation. I agree; The colors aren't are the best, but when sunlight from a window is used I find it to be fantastic in the way that it brings out the "real" lustur... Not just a reflection of the coin from the LED lights within the microscope. -Brian
Dear original poster: Sorry if this is percieved as stealing your thread. Just thought I would share some results, so feel free to let me know if I sort of crossed the line: Ok, I did some playing this morning. Essentially, I tried different lighting, angles, views, and coin materials to see what sort of baseline photos I can achieve. Below are photos of various coins in the collection...nothing too fancy. No editing of the photos has been performed. Let me know what you guys think: Copper: Look at those wheat ears! Small or large date...you decide! No LED: LED: Silver: Can you ID this Franklin variety? LED 2: Need to decide Type I or II? LED 1: Are these FBLs? No LED: Small or Large S? Toning? No LED: Composite Metals: Proof Clad: How do the gold dollars handle the close up? Does he have an extra finger? Overall I'm very impress with the buy. Thanks again to the original poster for making all of us aware of such a great deal. In general I find the LEDs do work to your advantage on silver more than anything. However, if there is a small area: mint mark for instance, the LEDs work best to surround the area your are photographing to gain a clearer sense of what to draw the reader's attention to. In other words, don't expect an all around crisp photo as the purpose of the device is to gain a crisp view of a small object in relation to the whole coin. Again, not a bad buy at all!
http://www.cointalk.com/content/21-what-you-need-know-about-type-ii-reverse-franklin.html Check this out to figure out whether your franklin is a var 1 or 2. I personaly thinks it is a 2 but it is your choice! -Taylor
You must turn the scroll on the microscope to focus. When it's blurry, move it closer or further away and soon enough you will get a crisp, clear photo. -Brian
Not bad! For some reason, your photos look a little bit lower quality. As to why, I am not sure. Try to focus the microscope as much as possible to get the clearest picture. Glad to hear that you like it! Regarding you stealing my thread, don't be silly...:too-funny: No harm done! -Brian
lol...sorry, man, but no on a couple of accounts. First, that was simply the eagle of the 55 Bugs Bunny that was pictured for bell lines and obverse rabbit teeth as well. As far as I know, die varieties of Type I and II were not noted for 1955...though I don't have a cherrypicker's guide so that may be different. (I hear gasping from other cointalk members..."No Cherrypicker's Guide!? What is that man thinking!?") Secondly, if it was a 1958 or '59, it would be a type 1. Just as a learning opportunity, I like to think of it this way. The original circulation strike had 4 feather's on the eagle's left wing. Since this was first, I see it as Type I. Type II came later when they took the proof reverse...3 feathers as it would appear sharper and more detail on the proofs. As the eagle shown had 4 feathers on the left, it would be a Type I, if it was a '58 or '59. Good try though!
Windows7 users - which microscope drivers are you using? My Win7 PC finally loaded old Microsoft drivers 1997 - 2002. If others are using later drivers I'll load them on my PC.
Hi Brian, Thanks for the heads-up on this microscope. I got mine late last week and couldn't use the disc that came with it, but managed to find some drivers online. I took a few sample shots but I'm not sure if the program I installed is letting me use all the features. How do you set the magnification? Is it just a function of the distance from the object, or is it a program selection? I did find a great use for the new scope. I set the focus with the scope resting on a coin, a 1944 D Lincoln, and then just used the scope to check the other 49 from the roll for RPM's. Didn't find any but it only took about 10 minutes total to check the whole roll. Nice! Thanks again and any tips on using this thing would be appreciated. Joe
Bump. This thread has probably sold a hundred of these things, if not more. Mine should arrive sometime this week... found a nickel I think might be something special and I'm willing to gamble $30 I was going to spend anyway on it.