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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;John Burgess, post: 7807196, member: 105098&quot;]My understanding is it&#039;s 95%+ red is red, and 95%+ brown is brown and everything in between in that 90% is Red/Brown.&nbsp; I think there is top premium for the ones qualifying as red (at least with older cents) and there&#039;s no premium for Brown. In the main category, that huge middle of red/brown,&nbsp; the eye appeal is what would dictate those prices, not the RB designation. Just that the RB is never going to command RD prices. A huge amount of coins will fall into brown or Red brown, only a few will fall into the red category, but there&#039;s still some really nice coins in the red/brown category with great eye appeal.</p><p><br /></p><p>I don&#039;t think there&#039;s anything wrong with it, they aren&#039;t grading coins on toning, they are grading coins on it&#039;s condition and adding the qualifier of RD, RB, BN to the label as surface color preservation level with these identifiers. RD would be Premium Quality, while Brown would be Low Quality, everything else is standard quality and subjective based on eye appeal of the particular subject. Red can be as it left the mint and even slightly toned, but not more than 5% brown overall. the RB is basically &quot;standard quality&quot; of color seen. not exceptional preservation, and not the worst.</p><p><br /></p><p>Also, I&#039;d like to add, people get over on grading companies on cleaning coins, they get over on them with artificial toning, what&#039;s to say that some &quot;old reds&quot; haven&#039;t gotten past them also over the years by people that spent the time working on how to &quot;dip&quot; copper acceptably at least to slide some past the grading companies, you KNOW those people HAVE to exist. I&#039;d assume it would be easier to bring a coin to full red (and more profitable) than it would be to take a brown and only move it into the red/brown category.</p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;m sure that has had to of happened at some point and some crafty people spent the time to figure out how to do it and slip it past them, and some red in slab are cleaned coins.&nbsp; I don&#039;t really see the added value to it personally. they all will eventually turn RB and then BN.</p><p><br /></p><p>And you also have to consider, they have changed the alloy over the years, the mix. there&#039;s brass, there&#039;s bronze, and that&#039;s two different colors of alloy ones more orange, the other is more yellow, one years &quot;red&quot; might not necessarily be the same color &quot;red&quot; as another year&#039;s &quot;red&quot; if it&#039;s a slightly different alloy mix. then there&#039;s improper alloy mixes that cause streaking or blotches. heavier pure copper areas will tone faster than where the alloy mixed well and give it darker streaks, and make it fall into RB much earlier than a coin that the alloy is mixed properly.</p><p><br /></p><p>I personally think it works quite well and there&#039;s quite a bit of wiggle room in the RB category for eye appeal to play a factor on desirability and value while the coins themselves are all original beauties especially on the high side of the red/brown range. Still though a Red/Brown should never surpass a Red&#039;s value. but still I&#039;m skeptical of a lot of RD designated coins as being original, but I&#039;m a skeptic. I can&#039;t see paying that premium when there are absolute stunners still in the RB category.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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