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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;RedRaider, post: 1322229, member: 27181&quot;]I know I am going to take some lip for purchasing this uncertified coin.&nbsp; I posted a craigslist add wanting to buy old cents locally and an older man replied saying he had this that his dad gave him when he was young.&nbsp; He also had a few common date Indians, a bunch of wheaties, some buffalo nickels and a lot of &quot;junk silver&quot;.&nbsp; This was the only one I was interested in buying.&nbsp; He didn&#039;t have any kids to pass it down to.&nbsp; He wanted $50 for it (don&#039;t worry, I was fair and gave him a lot more than that!).&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>I attributed it to Snow&#039;s PF-3 1886 Type 2.&nbsp; In his attribution guide, Richard Snow describes this date and variety as &quot;<font face="Times New Roman">Planchets have a bit higher alloy and tend to be a bit paler when untoned. It can be difficult to distinguish this original color with coins that have had their color artificially enhanced. Because of this it is very difficult to find certified full red examples.</font>These were likely struck midyear after most of the full sets were distributed and many remained unsold at years end. If this is the case, then these probably ended up being sold to David Proskey and others for face value. These coins toned a deep brown with purple high- lights and when attractive, command a great premium.<font face="Verdana">&quot;</font></p><p><br /></p><p>My questions to all you professionals......should I send this in for grading?&nbsp; It looks nice, but the colors might through the graders off.</p><p><br /></p><p>A disclaimer....I am still learning the whole photography thing with coins.&nbsp; I took a ton of pictures and am attaching a few I thought were the sharpest.&nbsp; I took in varying angles of light to show cameo surfaces.&nbsp; Thanks!</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH]150162.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]150163.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]150164.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]150165.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]150167.vB[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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