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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;dougsmit, post: 2424123, member: 19463&quot;]Good work!&nbsp; I still maintain that it i easier to shade the background when shooting than to do the paint out being careful not to cut into the edge of the coin.&nbsp; That is why I have that tube of black foam around my dowel (cd spindle in your case).</p><p><img src="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/image/160721449.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>While my main rig has adjustments from use of an old enlarger frame I have had for 50 years (Durst M600), the idea of the wood frame is added stability.&nbsp; If your was wobbly, you used too small wood.&nbsp; There is nothing wrong with 2x4&quot; but I used scraps of oak flooring just because I had them. </p><p><img src="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack00.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>The whole idea of the wood stand is to <b>not</b> be adjustable.&nbsp; Adjustments are made by having more than one size cd spindle or placing spacers under the one you have.&nbsp; Books work.</p><p><img src="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0pns02.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>If you must have adjustability as I wanted for my super close rig, consider a focus rail as shown below. Mine is a cheap Chinese one from ebay (4 way macro focussing rail) but you can spent a few hundred on ones with better machine finish.&nbsp; It is not necessary for normal whole coin shooting.</p><p>[ATTACH=full]502716[/ATTACH] </p><p><img src="http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/hIEAAOxydlFS~uiD/s-l500.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>The above image shows use of both extension tubes and bellows for close focus.&nbsp; To focus closer, you just need to move the lens farther from the &#039;film&#039;.&nbsp; 10mm gets you close, 16mm closer and 26mm even closer.&nbsp; I own enough various extension devices to focus on the front glass of the lens which is totally useless.&nbsp; A dedicated macro lens like the 100mm Canon I use gets you no closer.&nbsp; It is just more convenient to use and the optics of the lenses in this class tend to be excellent.&nbsp; You can add tubes to a macro lens.&nbsp; Another recent thread here showed an Aegina obol shot with 68mm worth of extension tubes on the 100mm macro.&nbsp; You can get carried away if you choose.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>If I were to suggest a camera rig with price being no object and impressing the neighbors being of prime importance, I would get a full frame dSLR like the Canon 5DmkIII with a 180mm macro lens (Sigma or Canon) and at least one set of Kenko macro extension tubes.&nbsp; I&#039;d mount this on a wood frame made of exotic hardwoods for impressing people or Home Depot 2x4&quot; pine for stability (select straight ones).&nbsp; There is no metal stand as strong as a well made wood one because metal vibrates much worse than wood. </p><p><br /></p><p>Did I mention that you can get carried away on this.&nbsp; The difference between a great camera and great lens and a regular dSLR is real and can be seen on large images.&nbsp; Of course few of my coins really need to be blown up to 20x30 inches (larger is possible but I have not done that yet.&nbsp; It may be a lot like being obsessive about the difference between MS68 and MS69 coins and the costs involved go up in a similar manner.&nbsp; Photo is a hobby.&nbsp; Some practitioners are prone to excess.&nbsp; I enjoy my excesses.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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