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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;dcarr, post: 2664894, member: 4781&quot;]You mean like this: <a href="http://www.moonlightmint.com/burdette_rebuttal_post.htm" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.moonlightmint.com/burdette_rebuttal_post.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.moonlightmint.com/burdette_rebuttal_post.htm</a> ?</p><p><br /></p><p>Here are some things that I &quot;debated&quot; with Burdette about in the past on other coin forums:</p><p><br /></p><p>1) Burdette claimed that lathe lines on a blank hub would be 100% eradicated during the hubbing process. I challenged him to a $5,000 wager that I could show conclusively that they can remain after hubbing. He wouldn&#039;t respond to that. I performed my test anyway, and showed that lathe lines and other defects would still be visible after hubbing. Here is that discussion: <a href="https://www.ngccoin.com/boards/topic/382961-what-caused-spiral-marks-on-a-coin/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.ngccoin.com/boards/topic/382961-what-caused-spiral-marks-on-a-coin/" rel="nofollow">https://www.ngccoin.com/boards/topic/382961-what-caused-spiral-marks-on-a-coin/</a></p><p><br /></p><p>2) Burdette wrote that the central bands area of a Mercury dime reverse die was where the highest stresses were. That is exactly opposite of reality. The fields of the coin are where the die penetrates the planchet the deepest (and so that is where the stresses are highest). The stresses are also higher towards the rim, not the center. Most die cracks start in the fields near the rim.</p><p><br /></p><p>3) Burdette promoted one of his books by mentioning that it contained a definition of the term &quot;doré&quot;. He claimed that in the 1870s the US Mint had problems with high sulfide content in the silver doré they purchased from California and/or Nevada sources. I challenged that by claiming that doré does not contain sulfides. I requested that he (or anyone else) post any document where the US Mint referred to this problematic silver as &quot;doré&quot;. He would not or could not.</p><p><br /></p><p>4) Burdette stated that the US Mint&#039;s &quot;burnished&quot; coin products are just marketing hype and that burnishing the blanks has no effect. I have personally struck (using the same dies) raw blanks, sand-blasted blanks, and burnished blanks. The difference in the finished product is visually evident. The strikes on burnished blanks typically have the best appearance.</p><p><br /></p><p>5) Regarding the casting of the &quot;broken sword&quot; Peace Dollar, Burdette posted that it should be iron. US Mint correspondence cited in his own book stated multiple times that the original castings were bronze. Nowhere in the book was &quot;iron&quot; mentioned. But Burdette still wouldn&#039;t clarify his &quot;iron&quot; statement: <a href="https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/973402/original-1921-peace-dollar-reverse-bronze-cast-with-broken-sword-design/p1" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/973402/original-1921-peace-dollar-reverse-bronze-cast-with-broken-sword-design/p1" rel="nofollow">https://forums.collectors.com/discussion/973402/original-1921-peace-dollar-reverse-bronze-cast-with-broken-sword-design/p1</a></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>If you like, go ahead and cite anything I wrote that you think is flawed.</p><p><br /></p><p>.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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