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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Kasia, post: 1245883, member: 31533&quot;]<b>Coin is PMD and worn</b></p><p><br /></p><p>I blew up the reverse of the coin, and what you are talking about is simply PMD and worn coin which allows imagination to &quot;see&quot; those things. Sometimes wear on a coin will cause strange &quot;effects&quot;, all of which are Post Mint Damage, and not on the coin when it came out of the Mint. Coin has no value over any other of same year, and this one may be valued (same as any other in good condition) at about 20 cents.&nbsp; There were 75 million plus made like it, so it&#039;s unlikely that someone would want to purchase a G4 or even an VG8 of this year when the dividing line (big jump, relatively) in price is between the EF-40 and AU-50 (according to my 2009 Red book) which gives a jump in price from 70 cents to 4 dollars for a 1924 Wheat Cent.</p><p><br /></p><p>My suggestion is to get a current or near-current red book and read it. It will be very helpful in knowing what you have. Also get a good loupe that is 5 or 7 power to be looking at the coin as well (Not a cheap one, which generally, IMO, do not provide good enough optics to be able to verify what errors are there). Some errors also require a higher power one, of 14 to 20 and a hastings triplet is a good choice, if made by a quality manufacturer. </p><p>The Philadelphia mint never put any P mintmarks on the cents, so NO Wheat Cent will have a P mintmark anywhere on it. Also buy a book or two on error coins and start looking at what constitutes hub doubled errors that are valuable. There are MANY forms of apparent doubling (not doubled dies) that are simply not a value at all. It is the true Doubled Die that is the value in this hobby, where the actual die making the coin had the doubled image on it.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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