I am sitting here looking at 2 NGC MS-69s (1993 and 1999). I got them along with other years in raw UNC, in Littleton ShowPaks, and a W in OGP: all for $25 each several months ago. On both the slabbed 69s, I can see with naked eye a couple of small hits in the field -----> 69 That's the easy way to tell, if you see any mark on the coin at all, it is not a 70.
I agree to what has been said above. But if I had the money to spare, I rather opt for the set of 70s! Unfortunately, I am a 69er hehehe
Except for the 95 W Eagle that is a 70, I am a FIRM believer in MS69 unless I can find a 70 low enough-Other than that ONE coin, I DARE you to find enough difference to justify sometimes $50 to THOUSANDS more than a 69 Just my opinion!
Agree Kip, but if you want to sell these coins, it doesn't hurt to market to the registry crowd that only want MS/PF 70's. I'm not saying all registry users want 70's, just the ones who want their sets to compete for the top spots. I don't think most people can tell the difference between a 69 and 70.
I'M NEW TO THIS GRADING THING. I SEE MS70 SILVER EAGLES ON EBAY AND THEY ARE CLOUDY OR THE CASE IS SCRATCHED. DOES THIS MAKE THEM WORTH LESS, ESPECIALLY THE CLOUDING OR TARNISHING THAT IS ALONG THE EDGES? I KNOW GOOD ENOUGH NOT TO CLEAN COINS AS THAT LOWERS THE PRICE TOO. ALSO HEARD THAT A BUYER CLAIMED THAT A CASE LOOKED AS IF IT WAS OPENED AND THEN THE COIN REPLACED WITH A LESSER QUALITY COIN, IS IT POSSIBLE TO GET INSIDE THE CASES? STEVE K
I'M NEW TO THIS GRADING THING. I SEE MS70 SILVER EAGLES ON EBAY AND THEY ARE CLOUDY OR THE CASE IS SCRATCHED. DOES THIS MAKE THEM WORTH LESS, ESPECIALLY THE CLOUDING OR TARNISHING THAT IS ALONG THE EDGES? I KNOW GOOD ENOUGH NOT TO CLEAN COINS AS THAT LOWERS THE PRICE TOO. ALSO HEARD THAT A BUYER CLAIMED THAT A CASE LOOKED AS IF IT WAS OPENED AND THEN THE COIN REPLACED WITH A LESSER QUALITY COIN, IS IT POSSIBLE TO GET INSIDE THE CASES? STEVE K
I really don't see the point of graded bullion coins. I also don't see the point of typing in all caps.
Try holding down the Ctrl key and press the + key to enlarge the words (and everything else) to see anything bigger. Ctrl and - (minus sign) to reduce it back. I love that feature and do it all the time.
There can be a difference in 69's. A dog 69 I got one time had a staple scratch like mark. I returned the coin telling ebay "the item I received was of lesser quality than the item pictured." I was refunded but it burned me up the seller would send that dog. I now buy a lot from GC because I will get the coin pictured..... Ideally a 69 may have one or two contact marks visible under magnification while a 70 has none. But if you 69 has a major tick visible.......
I'm a noob!! I inherited a few pieces 1980s era. Im lost other than going to a high class pawn shop - what my local "coin" resellers look like... more jewelry and misc than coins. Need a good place to start the rehoming process and stumbled upon this site along with my musings about grading them.
There is no difference except for the holder. The TPGs just set a percentage of coins to give 70’s and 69’s. If there are any noticeable marks, you get a “junk” grade of MS-68 or lower. MS-70 is a sham. Save your money.
That is the magic of the rise in population numbers. Prices fall as a coin is shown to be more common than previously thought.
