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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Scuba4fun777, post: 2814564, member: 75199&quot;]Topcat,</p><p>Do you have a genuine Morgan (with similar or better details) to do a side-by-side comparison? If not, I highly recommend that you borrow one. Comparing the two side-by-side should also help you in identifying the differences described here. </p><p>As Toughcoins similarly indicated above, the details are not as crisp as you&#039;d expect to see on a minted coin. It has an overall blurry look to it, which is characteristic of a cast &#039;replica&#039;. Another tell-tale sign of a casting are small air bubbles that remain stuck to the mold during the casting process, which show up on the cast item as pits. You can see a few of them on the obverse, surrounding the &#039;B&#039; in PLURIBUS. I&#039;m guessing there are probably more that we can&#039;t see. </p><p>And as just about everyone mentioned, the rims appear to be too disproportionate to be genuine. </p><p>Another method to help identify a non-genuine coin is &quot;ring&quot;. This isn&#039;t a perfect test, so it shouldn&#039;t be relied upon exclusively. If you&#039;re comfortable doing it, drop your known original from a couple inches above a countertop or other similar surface. Then repeat with your item pictured. Can you hear the difference? 90% silver coins have a pleasant ring to them (especially the larger halves &amp; dollars), whereas most other non-precious metals will have more of a dull thud. (Works on pennies, too - drop a 95% copper pre-1981 penny next to a newer penny. Hear the &#039;ring&#039; and &#039;thud&#039;?)</p><p><br /></p><p>Hope these tips help with this &quot;coin&quot; - and also to help you identify other cast counterfeits you may encounter in the future. </p><p><br /></p><p>Best of luck![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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