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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;The Meat man, post: 8334185, member: 135271&quot;]Here is my current set-up:</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1477509[/ATTACH] </p><p><br /></p><p>(Ironically, sorry for the poor picture quality.) </p><p><br /></p><p>I took a square piece of plywood and mounted a wooden dowel rod vertically in its center. Then I cut out and taped together a pyramid-like box out of cardboard, painted the bottom of the box with a special, super light-absorbing black paint, poked a hole in the bottom for the dowel, and slid it down on top. It is great for creating a solid black background - what light does get down in there is not easily reflected. The top of the dowel is dished slightly to better accommodate the sometimes thick, uneven surfaces of ancient coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>Sometimes I use my phone as shown in the picture (sitting on a book to get the focusing distance right), and sometimes I use my DSLR on a tripod. I don&#039;t have any macro equipment for the DSLR though, so those pictures tend to turn out less refined. On the other hand, the phone camera has a tendency to over-emphasize every tiny detail, sometimes making the picture unattractively (and unrealistically) grainy. I experiment to find the best option.</p><p><br /></p><p>The light is just a fluorescent bulb, which contrary to the photo, I usually hold in one hand, experimenting with angles, distances, etc. while I watch the screen/viewfinder until I find the best spot (which is not always the same from obv. to rev.)</p><p><br /></p><p>The photos I get aren&#039;t professional by any means, but I&#039;m pretty pleased with them most of the time. </p><p>After the photos I crop them using whatever default program my computer came with, adjust brightness, exposure, warmth, etc. if necessary, then use Paint to put the obverse and reverse images together with the descriptions.</p><p><br /></p><p>I&#039;ve gotten it down pretty good so it doesn&#039;t take me too long once I get decent photos.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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