Mislabeled TPG Slab Labels. Keep or Resubmit?

The coin is the coin, or in this case, the planchet is the planchet. TPG holders use numeric grades to indicate state of preservation of something that doesn't have problems, and those numbers have to have letters in front of them or there is panic. Trying to make a holder that said, "Polished planchet for Proof coinage -- as new," would cause something in the TPG works to blow chow, so we're left with interpreting PR62 on a blank that way. I'm cool with that. After all, it's not as if I can't see the planchet when looking at the holder.

 

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I have to agree with Chris its only worth what a collector will pay for it doesn't matter what it is worth or what someone told you what its worth I have been collection since 1964 and have lots of errors and I would not pay any where near that 1000.00 . if you can sell it for that amount I would jump on it only my opinon

 

I never disagreed with that point. I teach economics now for a living. I get It, as does everyone else. That wasn't ever the point. And my post is not about assessing a value.

 

I would be kind of surprised that the surface of a proof planchet would be that rough.

 

My opinion would be if you plan on selling the coin in the future and the label makes a difference in the possible loss of value, get it corrected.

 

I think it is still a proof even though it was not minted, as proof planchets are specially designed and prepared.
I'd leave it in the label and just explain the error in case there is a future sale.

 

I understand that they are prepared differently but it would be interesting to see a business strike planchet next to a proof one. If you have one if each could you photograph them together? I’m curious what the visual difference is.

 

Ok, here you go, my friend. I hope this helps. Below is the Proof vs. Business strike.



And now a closeup of each of five kinds I have in my collection below shown from top to bottom:

1. Clad proof planhet;
2. Regular clad planchet business strike (annealed)
3. Clad non-annealed blank
4. Experimental (or possible proof) clad blank (because it is annealed, it is technically a "type 2 blank.") Jon Sullivan strongly believes it is either a proof or an experimental finish.
5. 40% silver planchet
6. All 5 together!









Enjoy!

 

I just picked up this for $109, roughly the going rate for clad. Notice the label indicates it is silver with an "S" in front of the $1 (S$1). But it also says 22.4 grams...

So I am hoping the weight is wrong and it is silver, but I am guessing the label for it being silver is what's wrong. And I think it should look a little whiter....what do y'all think?

 

Well this error is more significant, because if the weight is correct, it's not silver.
Is that what the S signifies? Wouldn't it say AG or spell Silver out, or, say 40% silver? There is a big difference in weight: Copper/nickel-clad: ~22.68 g (350 gr) Silver clad: ~24.624 g (380 gr).

 

Yes. On some NGC holders, that S before the dollar sign means "silver." I bought it on the basis of it hopefully being silver, since that is what is on the slab. If not, I will likely return it because it will cost me money to ship it there and back for a new label. In this case, I believe the label should be corrected. Saying it is silver, when it is not, is very significant I think.

 

Yes S$1 is supposed to mean silver dollar. Sometimes the S gets there by mistake

 

If it’s not silver they should pay for shipping as well. I know PCGS covers the shipping both ways in those cases and believe NGC does as well

 

As always, thanks for always having good info. Also, my wife works for New Era, the company who makes hats for all the major and minor leagues. Who is your team?

 

Padres fan mostly and like Boston as well.

 

I thought the "S" meant it was a proof. I know NGC will put silver on the slab if its silver. Maybe its a Clad proof Planchet??

 

They’re not putting a mint mark on the label for a blank plancet, mint mark denotations don’t go there anyway.

 

For NGC, S$1 means silver dollar, as opposed to T$1 for trade dollar or G$1 for gold dollar. As far as I know, it's used on everything of that size with a silvery color regardless of the alloy.

And I like your set of blanks and planchets, although,

Don't you mean to use "upset" rather than "annealed" here, since what differentiates a blank from a planchet is whether or not the rim has been upset?

 

No, I don't mean that, respectfully

Actually, to be technical, concerning unstruck coins, the term "Type 2" doesn't always necessarily mean it is a planchet (meaning it has a rim a.k.a. an "upset" rim). There are actually Type 1 and Type 2 blanks without rims.

A "Type 1 blank" differs from a "Type 2 blank" in that Type 1 blanks are non-annealed or "unburnished". They look dull, and you see a series on perfectly straight, parallel lines throughout the entire surface. Here are examples of the two on some unstruck Sacagawea/Presidential Dollars; a set without a rim, and a set of type 2 planchets:

First, the blanks (non-annealed on left, or Type 1; annealed, or Type 2, on right).



Here is a closeup of both:



And now the non-annealed (unburnished) Type 2 planchet and annealed (burnished) Type 2 planchet:



All 4 together!