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<p>[QUOTE="benhur767, post: 3088946, member: 36818"]I work with Photoshop too, and this is basically the method I use. Although I use a pre-sized "template" image, which is just a white background that I have already saved to the correct pixel dimensions. This way I don't have to rethink things every time I make a composite coin image. For example, I don't have to remember the correct pixel dimensions to use each time.</p><p><br /></p><p>I also use the magic wand tool to delete the background of each separate obverse and reverse image, making it transparent before I drag to my template image. Each will appear on its own layer above the white background of the template. With the obverse and reverse backgrounds transparent, it's easier to position them without overlapping. This also eliminates uneven shadows, gradients, dust, and other distractions.</p><p><br /></p><p>I make sure to hold the Shift key when I drag the coin images onto the template image. This will automatically center them. I then drag the images into position, still holding Shift to lock to horizontal or vertical (depending if obverse and reverse are side-by-side or one above the other). I also use guides to ensure that the obverse and reverse are spaced consistently from image to image.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]779075[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>In the image above there are three layers, one each for obverse, reverse, and background. The checkerboard pattern behind the coin layers indicates that they are transparent, allowing the white background layer to show. The blue lines are guides, which I use for consistent spacing. This image is sized for placement on a web page for which all the coin images will be aligned along the bottom (see image below). Since they will all be shown at the correct sizes relative to each other, the extra space at the top and sides allows for varying flan sizes.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]779076[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="benhur767, post: 3088946, member: 36818"]I work with Photoshop too, and this is basically the method I use. Although I use a pre-sized "template" image, which is just a white background that I have already saved to the correct pixel dimensions. This way I don't have to rethink things every time I make a composite coin image. For example, I don't have to remember the correct pixel dimensions to use each time. I also use the magic wand tool to delete the background of each separate obverse and reverse image, making it transparent before I drag to my template image. Each will appear on its own layer above the white background of the template. With the obverse and reverse backgrounds transparent, it's easier to position them without overlapping. This also eliminates uneven shadows, gradients, dust, and other distractions. I make sure to hold the Shift key when I drag the coin images onto the template image. This will automatically center them. I then drag the images into position, still holding Shift to lock to horizontal or vertical (depending if obverse and reverse are side-by-side or one above the other). I also use guides to ensure that the obverse and reverse are spaced consistently from image to image. [ATTACH=full]779075[/ATTACH] In the image above there are three layers, one each for obverse, reverse, and background. The checkerboard pattern behind the coin layers indicates that they are transparent, allowing the white background layer to show. The blue lines are guides, which I use for consistent spacing. This image is sized for placement on a web page for which all the coin images will be aligned along the bottom (see image below). Since they will all be shown at the correct sizes relative to each other, the extra space at the top and sides allows for varying flan sizes. [ATTACH=full]779076[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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