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<p>[QUOTE="kaparthy, post: 1024217, member: 57463"]When I first started collecting, I settled on Mercury Dimes for several reasons. My username has been Mercury since 1985, first on a DEC VAX 11/70, and now mercury49at torchlake.com. Mercury was the messenger of the gods and my first career was in transportation. Mercury was also the patron of merchants and thieves -- it can be so hard to tell them apart sometimes. </p><p><br /></p><p>For a beginning collector, the series was achievable. Even the one key, the 1916-D is easy to find in any grade you want: all you need is the money. The middle of the series is harder: the lower mintages, the Ds and Ss are not that often set aside and not all dealers have desirable examples on hand. </p><p><br /></p><p>The <i>Complete Guide to Mercury Dimes</i> written by David Lange provided authoritative nformation about the series. For me, this was critical. </p><p><br /></p><p>I wrote <a href="http://www.coin-newbies.com/articles/mercury.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.coin-newbies.com/articles/mercury.html" rel="nofollow">this piece</a> first for Lloyd Lim's Numismatica/Telesphere and then re-wrote it for Coin Newbies. I learned to grade the coin rapidly from the reverse. The bands, diagonals and sticks -- I call them "rods" but the graders all say "sticks" -- make it easy. I found the mass of swirly curls hard to parse. When I said that online (rec.collecting.coins) another Michigan collector replied that it is pretty easy once you know how. Together we wrote an article about grading Mercury Dimes for <i>Winning Ways </i>magazine of Women in Numismatics.</p><p><br /></p><p>In 2001, working on a project in Dallas, I had a couple of opportunities to visit Heritage. Though I missed the sale itself, they had a nice poster of the finest set of Mercury Dimes ever assembled. It was splendid.</p><p><br /></p><p>My own Whitman was built pretty much from bags of circs. A local dealer -- Liberty in Lansing, Michigan -- let me come in a few times and work through their bulk. Eventually, I bought the ones I could not find, or could not find in grade. The 21-D and 21-S, of course, but it was interesting to see the holes left by random chance for coins whose mintages spoke otherwise. Similarly, nominal rarities did show up, as well, which is the fun in searching, of course.</p><p><br /></p><p>All in all, the series has a lot to commend it.</p><p><br /></p><p>I never did get the 16-D, though. With all the others in Fine or above, a Good 16-D was not enough.</p><p><br /></p><p>Also, I bought several 16-Ps in Unc. If you know the series and get used to looking at it, you realize that the fresher hubs created sharper dies from which detailed coins were struck. Mercury Dimes of World War II can have Mint bloom and Mint luster and Full Split Bands and all that, but compared to a 16, once you know, they look mushy.</p><p>If you have to have "just one" get a Mint State 16-P: it is affordable and satisfying.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="kaparthy, post: 1024217, member: 57463"]When I first started collecting, I settled on Mercury Dimes for several reasons. My username has been Mercury since 1985, first on a DEC VAX 11/70, and now mercury49at torchlake.com. Mercury was the messenger of the gods and my first career was in transportation. Mercury was also the patron of merchants and thieves -- it can be so hard to tell them apart sometimes. For a beginning collector, the series was achievable. Even the one key, the 1916-D is easy to find in any grade you want: all you need is the money. The middle of the series is harder: the lower mintages, the Ds and Ss are not that often set aside and not all dealers have desirable examples on hand. The [I]Complete Guide to Mercury Dimes[/I] written by David Lange provided authoritative nformation about the series. For me, this was critical. I wrote [URL="http://www.coin-newbies.com/articles/mercury.html"]this piece[/URL] first for Lloyd Lim's Numismatica/Telesphere and then re-wrote it for Coin Newbies. I learned to grade the coin rapidly from the reverse. The bands, diagonals and sticks -- I call them "rods" but the graders all say "sticks" -- make it easy. I found the mass of swirly curls hard to parse. When I said that online (rec.collecting.coins) another Michigan collector replied that it is pretty easy once you know how. Together we wrote an article about grading Mercury Dimes for [I]Winning Ways [/I]magazine of Women in Numismatics. In 2001, working on a project in Dallas, I had a couple of opportunities to visit Heritage. Though I missed the sale itself, they had a nice poster of the finest set of Mercury Dimes ever assembled. It was splendid. My own Whitman was built pretty much from bags of circs. A local dealer -- Liberty in Lansing, Michigan -- let me come in a few times and work through their bulk. Eventually, I bought the ones I could not find, or could not find in grade. The 21-D and 21-S, of course, but it was interesting to see the holes left by random chance for coins whose mintages spoke otherwise. Similarly, nominal rarities did show up, as well, which is the fun in searching, of course. All in all, the series has a lot to commend it. I never did get the 16-D, though. With all the others in Fine or above, a Good 16-D was not enough. Also, I bought several 16-Ps in Unc. If you know the series and get used to looking at it, you realize that the fresher hubs created sharper dies from which detailed coins were struck. Mercury Dimes of World War II can have Mint bloom and Mint luster and Full Split Bands and all that, but compared to a 16, once you know, they look mushy. If you have to have "just one" get a Mint State 16-P: it is affordable and satisfying.[/QUOTE]
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