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<p>[QUOTE="National dealer, post: 3634, member: 487"]I hope that this does not add to your confusion. Here are a few examples of why it is important to have your coins looked at by a dealer or seasoned collector.</p><p><br /></p><p> The cost of grading depends on a few issues including value, number of submissions, and a few others. Generally it runs about $28 per coin. Both PCGS and NGC have direct submissions through their programs and if you are a member of the ANA you can submit to NGC through them. Another option is to have an authorized dealer submit the coins on your behalf. This is a good option, as the dealer can give an opinion to grade and condition of the coin. Both PCGS and NGC do not grade cleaned or altered coins. It takes some expirience to learn this. A hundred year old coin that was cleaned 80 years ago is a little hard to detect for the average collector. Type 2 coins refer to the small differences between the dies that were used to strike a particular series. Sometimes it is as simple as a mint mark being slightly different, or a subtle difference in the design. A few years stand out. 1979, and 1981 proof sets include type 2 coins. There are also a couple of years in the proof series that have no mint mark on certain coins. 1971 Jefferson Five cent coin, 1975 Dime, 1983 Dime, and the 1990 One Cent coin. All of these coins should bear the "S" mint mark. A few other issues include large and small dates. Because of the small differences that can make a large difference in price it is always best to have your collection viewed by someone with numismatic expirience. Just as one example the 1970 Proof set is listed in the greysheet as having a dealer bid price of $12. The same set with the Dime missing the "S" mint mark has a dealer bid price of $1050. Not all examples have such a wide spread in price difference, but it is the knowledge in numismatics that can make the difference. Too often the recipient of a collection makes selling the priority. While there are too many aspects of numismatics to be learned in a short period of time, please take advantage of the resources that are available to you. If no dealer is within area, look for a coin club. Contact the ANA, <a href="http://www.money.org" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.money.org" rel="nofollow">www.money.org</a> for a listing of any dealers or clubs. Lastly, be patient. I know that it is overwhelming. I wish you good luck. If you have specific questions about a particular set or coin, please feel free to email me direct.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="National dealer, post: 3634, member: 487"]I hope that this does not add to your confusion. Here are a few examples of why it is important to have your coins looked at by a dealer or seasoned collector. The cost of grading depends on a few issues including value, number of submissions, and a few others. Generally it runs about $28 per coin. Both PCGS and NGC have direct submissions through their programs and if you are a member of the ANA you can submit to NGC through them. Another option is to have an authorized dealer submit the coins on your behalf. This is a good option, as the dealer can give an opinion to grade and condition of the coin. Both PCGS and NGC do not grade cleaned or altered coins. It takes some expirience to learn this. A hundred year old coin that was cleaned 80 years ago is a little hard to detect for the average collector. Type 2 coins refer to the small differences between the dies that were used to strike a particular series. Sometimes it is as simple as a mint mark being slightly different, or a subtle difference in the design. A few years stand out. 1979, and 1981 proof sets include type 2 coins. There are also a couple of years in the proof series that have no mint mark on certain coins. 1971 Jefferson Five cent coin, 1975 Dime, 1983 Dime, and the 1990 One Cent coin. All of these coins should bear the "S" mint mark. A few other issues include large and small dates. Because of the small differences that can make a large difference in price it is always best to have your collection viewed by someone with numismatic expirience. Just as one example the 1970 Proof set is listed in the greysheet as having a dealer bid price of $12. The same set with the Dime missing the "S" mint mark has a dealer bid price of $1050. Not all examples have such a wide spread in price difference, but it is the knowledge in numismatics that can make the difference. Too often the recipient of a collection makes selling the priority. While there are too many aspects of numismatics to be learned in a short period of time, please take advantage of the resources that are available to you. If no dealer is within area, look for a coin club. Contact the ANA, [url]www.money.org[/url] for a listing of any dealers or clubs. Lastly, be patient. I know that it is overwhelming. I wish you good luck. If you have specific questions about a particular set or coin, please feel free to email me direct.[/QUOTE]
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