I removed this 1913 Type I from a VERY old ANACS flip, the kind where the coin was stapled into a 2 X 2 inside a flexible plastic pouch. The card that accompanied the coin, literally paper-clipped to it, reads "©1986 American Numismatic Association." It had 4 grades assigned to it, separately for the obverse and reverse and then a final grade. Here is how the coin graded: Luster: Obverse: Original 63; Reverse: Original 63 Surface: Obverse: Average 63; Reverse: Average 63 Eye Appeal: Obverse: Average 63; Reverse: Average 63 Strike: Obverse: Sharply Struck 64; Reverse: Sharply Struck 64 Consensus Grade Opinion: MS 63/63 If graded today, would this still fall into that range? MS 63? It seems a little flat to me, so I'm thinking that it might actually grade lower. I also have this 1938-D (so I seem to have the first and last years of the series here) - any opinions on a grade for this one? I don't know what the 2 splotches are on the top and to the right of the obverse, but they don't make me feel all warm and fuzzy. The coin has a more shiny and slightly bronze-like tone in hand that did not come out in the photo. For comparison, I also have a 1916 NGC MS 64 - this seems a lot more lustrous than the 1913 above, far more than just 1 MS level.
Your 13 has a satiny luster. If not cleaned or impaired which I can’t tell through my screen I’d call it a 64 today. The 38 a 65 or possibly a little better
Please, one coin per thread or some of our minds will go crazy. You should know better. Rules are rules for a reason. Overall, Nice coins!!
The 38 looks to have great luster. Have you looked closely at the MM. 38D has 9 rpm's and 5 D/S OMM's OMM's http://varietyvista.com/03 Buffalo Nickels/OMMs 1938-D.htm RPM's http://varietyvista.com/03 Buffalo Nickels/RPMs 1938-D.htm
The grading information on the 1913 is worth more than the coin. Some that collect the TPG slabs would probably pay a premium for it. The 1938 looks like I may have been conserved ("cleaned') to remove the two carbon spots that now have an off color.
