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<p>[QUOTE="desertgem, post: 2790788, member: 15199"]Alurid, I think you are doing it backwards, If there is no doubling visible to you, then is most likely is not a DD. Die chips are usually related to design, and inherent weakness in the same spot on the working dies of that design can cause breakage and fill in of metal ( such as the 'BIE' type between the B and E of "LIBERTY" on many cents that often results from such damage), but they can occurs elsewhere also, especially in numbers or letters that have a "Hole" , such as the inside of 0,6,8,9 or similar letters. They do not indicate a strong relationship to a single die, but to the specific year and series, so they should only be used for confirmation AFTER it is determined it is a 'real' DD. doing the reverse will drive many 'NUTS' and make verifiers Well-to-do on fees. They would not look at the chips until they had confirmed it as a DD. IMO. Jim[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="desertgem, post: 2790788, member: 15199"]Alurid, I think you are doing it backwards, If there is no doubling visible to you, then is most likely is not a DD. Die chips are usually related to design, and inherent weakness in the same spot on the working dies of that design can cause breakage and fill in of metal ( such as the 'BIE' type between the B and E of "LIBERTY" on many cents that often results from such damage), but they can occurs elsewhere also, especially in numbers or letters that have a "Hole" , such as the inside of 0,6,8,9 or similar letters. They do not indicate a strong relationship to a single die, but to the specific year and series, so they should only be used for confirmation AFTER it is determined it is a 'real' DD. doing the reverse will drive many 'NUTS' and make verifiers Well-to-do on fees. They would not look at the chips until they had confirmed it as a DD. IMO. Jim[/QUOTE]
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