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<p>[QUOTE="Niel, post: 377221, member: 13422"]No disrespect but I learned a long time ago not to argue with science folk. With enough calculations they can prove that I don't exist. If looked at long enough, I believe them too! <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>I stand by my earlier statements. 120v lamps wired in series will not burn at full intensity because the filament of the lamp is designed to have a particular voltage drop across it in order to work properly. In a series circuit each lamp does not see a 120v drop across it (as Andy21 shows by his math.) In fact the voltage drop across each part of a series circuit adds up to the total applied voltage.</p><p><br /></p><p>While the right number and wattage lamps MIGHT appear to run at close to full output, they in fact do not.</p><p><br /></p><p>With very few exceptions, household and lighting fixture wiring is done with parallel circuits. This insures that each lamp in the circuit gets the same voltage and that if one lamp burns out the rest of the lamps will stay on. What must be kept in mind with parallel circuits is that the wattage of the bulbs will add up (which means the amount of current flowing through the entire circuit will increase as more lamps are added)</p><p>The total amperage of the whole kit and kaboodle should not exceed the ratings of any wiring, switch or breaker that it's plugged into.</p><p><br /></p><p>Most household wall circuits use 15 amp breakers and wiring which translates to aprox 1800 watts per circuit.</p><p><br /></p><p>3@ 60 watt A-19 lamps = 180 watts which pull 1.5 amps = no problem</p><p>3@ 1000 watt T-3 theatrical lamps = 3000 watts which pulls 25 amps. = BIG problems <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>I may not know that much about coins, but I do know something about practical electrical wiring.</p><p><br /></p><p>Best to all.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Niel, post: 377221, member: 13422"]No disrespect but I learned a long time ago not to argue with science folk. With enough calculations they can prove that I don't exist. If looked at long enough, I believe them too! :D I stand by my earlier statements. 120v lamps wired in series will not burn at full intensity because the filament of the lamp is designed to have a particular voltage drop across it in order to work properly. In a series circuit each lamp does not see a 120v drop across it (as Andy21 shows by his math.) In fact the voltage drop across each part of a series circuit adds up to the total applied voltage. While the right number and wattage lamps MIGHT appear to run at close to full output, they in fact do not. With very few exceptions, household and lighting fixture wiring is done with parallel circuits. This insures that each lamp in the circuit gets the same voltage and that if one lamp burns out the rest of the lamps will stay on. What must be kept in mind with parallel circuits is that the wattage of the bulbs will add up (which means the amount of current flowing through the entire circuit will increase as more lamps are added) The total amperage of the whole kit and kaboodle should not exceed the ratings of any wiring, switch or breaker that it's plugged into. Most household wall circuits use 15 amp breakers and wiring which translates to aprox 1800 watts per circuit. 3@ 60 watt A-19 lamps = 180 watts which pull 1.5 amps = no problem 3@ 1000 watt T-3 theatrical lamps = 3000 watts which pulls 25 amps. = BIG problems :D I may not know that much about coins, but I do know something about practical electrical wiring. Best to all.[/QUOTE]
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