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<p>[QUOTE="Publius2, post: 8226050, member: 105571"]Reasonable people can disagree on what constitutes a "type" and of course everyone is free to collect whatever and however they prefer. I generally like to impose some general principles upon myself if only to contain the chaos that can develop from collecting without guidelines. Herewith my general type set guidelines:</p><p><br /></p><p>1) Generally follow Red Book type listings for U.S. coins 1792 to date with a wide degree of freedom to include more but drastically reduced freedom to collect less than what Red Book calls a type.</p><p>2) If it wasn't produced for use in commerce, it's excluded - with certain exceptions.</p><p>3) I include pre-federation and colonial coinage, whether minted in the colonies or not. If it circulated and was used for exchange, it's included. Thus, cobs, reales, English farthings, half and penneys, Rosas, Hibernias, etc are included as are a few examples of colonial currency and Revolutionary Confederation currency.</p><p>4) What is generally recognized as tokens is not included, although I recognize that colonial and pre-federation periods have circular metal objects that seem to inhabit a hybrid domain.</p><p>4) MMs do not constitute a type for the simple reason that the hubs/master dies and most of the working dies were produced by the Philadelphia mint thus defining the design type with the branch mints merely punching in the dates and MMs locally. Thus, the coin's designs were established at the Philly mint and the branches just made them custom to their location. But true to the principle of freedom-to-add, I have a 1878-CC dime in my type set just because I wanted a CC coin in the set.</p><p>5) I will use a proof IF the year of the proof also consists of business strikes and the proof's design type matches that of the business strike. Type sets are generally not about die varieties. </p><p>6) My type set includes pre-1933 gold but budget limitations restrict this part of the collection to post-1834, except for one 1811 half eagle that I just had to have!</p><p>5) No commemorative coins except the classics like Lafayette dollar, one half dollar and the Isabella. Haven't made up my mind yet about early commemorative gold. Again, freedom to add but not subtract.</p><p>6) Modern coins are only represented by one of the type, i.e. ATB quarters are represented by only one coin, state quarters are only represented by one coin. This is the way to include examples of these series while damping down the chaos of the modern mint and preserving storage space.</p><p><br /></p><p>I apologize for boring you to death. I just got typing and couldn't stop the logorrhea.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Publius2, post: 8226050, member: 105571"]Reasonable people can disagree on what constitutes a "type" and of course everyone is free to collect whatever and however they prefer. I generally like to impose some general principles upon myself if only to contain the chaos that can develop from collecting without guidelines. Herewith my general type set guidelines: 1) Generally follow Red Book type listings for U.S. coins 1792 to date with a wide degree of freedom to include more but drastically reduced freedom to collect less than what Red Book calls a type. 2) If it wasn't produced for use in commerce, it's excluded - with certain exceptions. 3) I include pre-federation and colonial coinage, whether minted in the colonies or not. If it circulated and was used for exchange, it's included. Thus, cobs, reales, English farthings, half and penneys, Rosas, Hibernias, etc are included as are a few examples of colonial currency and Revolutionary Confederation currency. 4) What is generally recognized as tokens is not included, although I recognize that colonial and pre-federation periods have circular metal objects that seem to inhabit a hybrid domain. 4) MMs do not constitute a type for the simple reason that the hubs/master dies and most of the working dies were produced by the Philadelphia mint thus defining the design type with the branch mints merely punching in the dates and MMs locally. Thus, the coin's designs were established at the Philly mint and the branches just made them custom to their location. But true to the principle of freedom-to-add, I have a 1878-CC dime in my type set just because I wanted a CC coin in the set. 5) I will use a proof IF the year of the proof also consists of business strikes and the proof's design type matches that of the business strike. Type sets are generally not about die varieties. 6) My type set includes pre-1933 gold but budget limitations restrict this part of the collection to post-1834, except for one 1811 half eagle that I just had to have! 5) No commemorative coins except the classics like Lafayette dollar, one half dollar and the Isabella. Haven't made up my mind yet about early commemorative gold. Again, freedom to add but not subtract. 6) Modern coins are only represented by one of the type, i.e. ATB quarters are represented by only one coin, state quarters are only represented by one coin. This is the way to include examples of these series while damping down the chaos of the modern mint and preserving storage space. I apologize for boring you to death. I just got typing and couldn't stop the logorrhea.[/QUOTE]
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