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<p>[QUOTE="dcarr, post: 2166619, member: 4781"]I use common-date lower-grade genuine US Mint Barber half dollars of 1893-1915 vintage. They can be cleaned, but I don't use any that have major damage.</p><p><br /></p><p>First I clean off the gunk and tarnish. Then I use a special mechanical process to flatten them out somewhat (the device outlines are still visible), and reduce the diameter a tiny bit. There is no heating or melting, and no metal is added or removed. Then I stamp over them as if they were blank planchets. I try to align the over-strike with the existing design as close as possible. But there are usually a few places where the underlying design outlines still show after the over-strike.</p><p>My production "blog" can be viewed here:</p><p><a href="http://www.moonlightmint.com/blog_14.htm" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.moonlightmint.com/blog_14.htm" rel="nofollow">http://www.moonlightmint.com/blog_14.htm</a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dcarr, post: 2166619, member: 4781"]I use common-date lower-grade genuine US Mint Barber half dollars of 1893-1915 vintage. They can be cleaned, but I don't use any that have major damage. First I clean off the gunk and tarnish. Then I use a special mechanical process to flatten them out somewhat (the device outlines are still visible), and reduce the diameter a tiny bit. There is no heating or melting, and no metal is added or removed. Then I stamp over them as if they were blank planchets. I try to align the over-strike with the existing design as close as possible. But there are usually a few places where the underlying design outlines still show after the over-strike. My production "blog" can be viewed here: [url]http://www.moonlightmint.com/blog_14.htm[/url][/QUOTE]
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