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<p>[QUOTE="WingedLiberty, post: 1442620, member: 26030"]I can't speak for your SBA Dollar, you know what that looks like in hand. If you say the photo doesnt represent the coin well, I believe you. For me, I typically find the TV photos captures my coins PERFECTLY (at the OPTIMAL popped color angle)</p><p><br /></p><p>On the tilting issue. I did want to add that I have deducted (inferred) that Phil has a set up that allows tilting of coins to take them "out of round" when being shot ... then he uses some sort of software to get the coins back to round. I guessed this because I actually had Phil shoot about 5 images showing the various colors of a Matte Proof Lincoln I own (it shows different colors at different angles). And I noticed after I got the images back that the size of Lincolns head (for example) was varying (that is the width of Abe's head was varying slightly). I found this out by doing a "layering of images" in a Photoshop master file where I could quickly flip through all the images he shot (where one image lays exactly on top of the next). If this is true, then it's clear that this technique would allow PCGS TrueView TREMENDOUS flexibility in tipping the coin to find the Maximum color pop angle and then shooting it -- no matter how "tipped" or "angled" the coin is at. Without that (back to round) sofltware to take the coin images back to round, he would end up with flashy looking coins that were eliptical instead of round in shape in the photos. Now you can see in my iphone photos above ALL of the coins are tipped slightly (i am not shooting straight down) ... I always find I need to tip the coin to max out the color.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now I just wanted to add that I do not KNOW this FOR A FACT about what PCGS TrueView is doing exactly (that's probably a well guarded secret) ... it's something I deduced or inferred from the images I got back.</p><p><br /></p><p>Also the fact that Phil can shoot a coin RAW with no slab plastic in the way is a HUGE advantage, as often the angle that pops the max color on a slabbed coin also pops the glare on the slab. I have seen this again and again with slabbed coins (that the plastic glare gets in the way).</p><p><br /></p><p>Finally I think this whole tipping issue is why PCGS TrueView photos sometimes have minor focusing issues, usually on only parts of the coin. People that shoot straight down produce more clearly focused images, but never show as much color as those that tip or angle the coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>One last thing I have noticed is whatever technique PCGS TrueView uses, it tends to sacrifice luster (and mirrors in some cases) for color. However I think they will shoot a coin however you want if you write it on your submission form. So if you said please shoot to max out LUSTER and not COLOR, they will. </p><p><br /></p><p>That is my experience at least!</p><p><br /></p><p>Now for non-color coins, this whole train of thought goes away! You just shoot those straight down. These are MUCH EASIER to capture than colorfully-toned coins which have hundreds of different looks depending on the angle![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="WingedLiberty, post: 1442620, member: 26030"]I can't speak for your SBA Dollar, you know what that looks like in hand. If you say the photo doesnt represent the coin well, I believe you. For me, I typically find the TV photos captures my coins PERFECTLY (at the OPTIMAL popped color angle) On the tilting issue. I did want to add that I have deducted (inferred) that Phil has a set up that allows tilting of coins to take them "out of round" when being shot ... then he uses some sort of software to get the coins back to round. I guessed this because I actually had Phil shoot about 5 images showing the various colors of a Matte Proof Lincoln I own (it shows different colors at different angles). And I noticed after I got the images back that the size of Lincolns head (for example) was varying (that is the width of Abe's head was varying slightly). I found this out by doing a "layering of images" in a Photoshop master file where I could quickly flip through all the images he shot (where one image lays exactly on top of the next). If this is true, then it's clear that this technique would allow PCGS TrueView TREMENDOUS flexibility in tipping the coin to find the Maximum color pop angle and then shooting it -- no matter how "tipped" or "angled" the coin is at. Without that (back to round) sofltware to take the coin images back to round, he would end up with flashy looking coins that were eliptical instead of round in shape in the photos. Now you can see in my iphone photos above ALL of the coins are tipped slightly (i am not shooting straight down) ... I always find I need to tip the coin to max out the color. Now I just wanted to add that I do not KNOW this FOR A FACT about what PCGS TrueView is doing exactly (that's probably a well guarded secret) ... it's something I deduced or inferred from the images I got back. Also the fact that Phil can shoot a coin RAW with no slab plastic in the way is a HUGE advantage, as often the angle that pops the max color on a slabbed coin also pops the glare on the slab. I have seen this again and again with slabbed coins (that the plastic glare gets in the way). Finally I think this whole tipping issue is why PCGS TrueView photos sometimes have minor focusing issues, usually on only parts of the coin. People that shoot straight down produce more clearly focused images, but never show as much color as those that tip or angle the coins. One last thing I have noticed is whatever technique PCGS TrueView uses, it tends to sacrifice luster (and mirrors in some cases) for color. However I think they will shoot a coin however you want if you write it on your submission form. So if you said please shoot to max out LUSTER and not COLOR, they will. That is my experience at least! Now for non-color coins, this whole train of thought goes away! You just shoot those straight down. These are MUCH EASIER to capture than colorfully-toned coins which have hundreds of different looks depending on the angle![/QUOTE]
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