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Proof it !

 

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Wow, great proofs, @Hugh Stiel. People tend to forget that these old proofs weren't originally all hairlined like a lot of them are now. If they were properly handled for the entire lifetimes, they'd all grade PF65 or better, with a good share of 67-69s.

 

1909 Matte Proof Lincoln (PCGS PR65RB). Some great photos by Phil Arnold (PCGS TrueView) at slightly different camera and lighting angles. Top image shows slightly better detail and color, bottom image shows slightly better gloss.

 

Some matching Reverse shots ...

 

Im curious about these, do they take worn barbers and make them look fresh like this, or is it a genuine BU coin and then just the date changed or smaller parts of the design element

 

@treylxapi47 , as I understand it, he (legally) owns a surplus press from the Denver mint (as per the info in the picture). He is talented enough to make his own designs and somehow puts the designs on actual 90% coins from the era.

 

I think I understand at least that much of the process. What I am curious about is the quality of the 90% 'planchet'.

Is it a BU barber or other host coin, or can an XF be overstruck to look practically brand new.

@dcarr care to chime in?

 

My first "real" counterfeit. It's the harder-to-find Henning nickel with no loop in the R. Have wanted on for a while because of the story behind it. Tried to explain it to my coworkers why I paid $45 for a fake nickel....I bet you can guess how that went....

 

Very nice but I would mash down those staples

 

Will be done before it joins it's friends.

 

Neat !
I have one of these somewhere. I'm not sure if mine is the kind with the loop or not. I also have a 1939 Henning nickel that has the looped "R". It seems a lot of people don't know that in addition to the 1944 no-"P" nickels, Henning also made some dated 1939 with the same looped-R die that he used for some of the 1944 no-P coins.

 

I use common-date lower-grade genuine US Mint Barber half dollars of 1893-1915 vintage. They can be cleaned, but I don't use any that have major damage.

First I clean off the gunk and tarnish. Then I use a special mechanical process to flatten them out somewhat (the device outlines are still visible), and reduce the diameter a tiny bit. There is no heating or melting, and no metal is added or removed. Then I stamp over them as if they were blank planchets. I try to align the over-strike with the existing design as close as possible. But there are usually a few places where the underlying design outlines still show after the over-strike.
My production "blog" can be viewed here:
http://www.moonlightmint.com/blog_14.htm

 

Just recieved this in the mail from David Kahn (his photos). One of my favorite dates.

 

Started my newest set today!
Walking Liberty MS65

Hoping to complete the Short Set in the next two years.

Anyone advice for this set...

Thanks,
Jesse
_______________________
Currently collecting
Morgan Set - MS63
Walking Liberty Short Set - MS65

 

1909 DDO (FS-101, S-1) PCGS MS64RD...

 

Stear clear of beans and that should help save money and time. Anything in that semi new Pcgs holder are either upgraded already from older holder's Ngc and Pcgs. Walking Liberty half dollar are fun enjoy.