Glad I passed on that other toned Morgan last night. This pattern of toning is far more typical for Morgans, and I really like it. Nice strike for "Nawlins" as well, and a solid 64! This was a better pickup, and actually cheaper than the other "tone monster."
Hey Oval ... I like your theory on why the TV's match my indirect sunlight images ... This whole question of "hotness" and "white points" are beyond my knowledge base -- but what you wrote does make logical sense to me. It's a fascinating subject matter for sure. One issue I also struggle with is how different images look on different monitors ... I have a PC with an LED screen running right next to an iMac and the color balance is completely different ... So I can't even be sure that what you see on your monitor matches what I see on my monitor. Another whole can of worms!
In regards to hotness. When I was told Phil's lights were hot, I was referring to the temperature of the room because of the heat generated from the lights not color temperature. I use 5500ºK CFL bulbs and they are cool in comparison to incandescent or tungsten lights. I have used 5000ºK OTT lights and those were so cool you could keep them in your pocket and they won't burn. I wouldn't dare try that with a 3200ºK incandescent bulb. Those are real hot potatoes.
Oh-oh, we're in the "hot: temperature" vs. "hot: spicy" area. I tried a set of 5500K CFL photofloods before (not for coins; I was shooting student drawings) and one was erring on the magenta side and the other on the green side, so I gave up on them. Also, even though they were supposed to approximate 500 watts (each), they weren't nearly as powerful, throw-wise, as my tungstens, so I went back to the hot potatoes.
I bought this....probably paid too much, but I don't care. I love the design and it looks PL like a specimen strike. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200765024632?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648
Here's my newest: an unstruck 1916-D Mercury Dime. As a dime nut it only makes sense to eventually have a blank. Might use it as that '16-D place holder actually...
It absolutely is. Fortunately, I don't have to worry about it (professionally or personally) and therefore can just concern myself with how coins look relative to one another on my screen.
Log, that is a great piece! As long as you like it, I think it was worth it. I just love that Helvetia design, it has been used for decades and decades.
Here are two new additions to my CBH variety set. The first is a cherry-picked 1823 ugly 3, unattributed, XF45. I was lucky to snag it for a silly low price. (I am never this lucky.) The second is an 1812/1 overdate I picked up from Harry Laibstain. AU53 and maybe a little under graded. Nice color and very crusty. Lance.
My Colorful Lincoln Proof Collection (Pre-War Wheat 1936-1942). What do you all think of my "virtual/digital coin boards" that I just whipped up in Photoshop for my colorful Lincoln Proof collection? Many of us collectors "cut our teeth" pushing coins into cardboard folders or albums ... with these digital coin boards, we can sort of re-live that satisfaction (all the while our coins are locked and protected safely away in their plastic holders). It's also nice that these virtual boards allow viewing of the fronts and the backs, simultaneously. Note that all of the coins below are PCGS graded; and all the images are from PCGS TrueView photographs. I started this collection about a year ago when I got inspired by some beautiful, colorful Lincoln Proofs in the collection of my good friend robec. Most collectors might not realize how EXTREMELY DIFFICULT it is finding an attractive, colorfully-toned Proof Lincoln (that PCGS will grade) for every year starting in 1936. I used 1975 as a cut-off date in my virtual coin boards because it's practically impossible to find colorfully-toned proofs later than that date (though a few do exist).
(Post-War Wheat 1950-1958). There are some very difficult slots in this era. The 1950 and 1951 are tough due to the lower mintages, 1952 and 1956 have very few colorful examples, and 1958 is a very difficult find.
(P-Mint Memorial 1959-1964). The Philadelphia Mint Memorials produced a good number of very pretty toned examples. The most difficult slot, by far, in this era is the 1959. The 1960 Small Date is also tough. The easiest and most common date by a mile is the 1961 -- there are so many beautiful examples for this one year, it's staggering.
(S-Mint Memorial 1968-1975). The San Francisco Mint Memorials are a very tough set. With all of the dates very difficult to find with colorful toning that PCGS will bless. The lone exception is the 1970-S where there are a bevy of target toned examples, however I have yet to see one that is pretty or striking enough to call a monster.
SUPER COOL WL !!! I wish I had the coins, time and talent to do that...:yes: Good luck on that 1936 Brilliant, that'll be a tough one.
Without a doubt, the nicest album I have ever seen, physical or virtual. The gauntlet is thrown as the bar is raised. Great job!!!
I too have multiple Monitors side-by-side (or side-by-each if you are Canadian). The same coin image look very different on each. Not just color, but contrast and brightness can be very different depending on the monitor type, connection type (VGA,DVI,HDMI, Display Port, etc) and local settings for each monitor. Even if I were to calibrate all my monitors at home and at work, it's still completely useless to do so, since 99.9% of the general public have crap monitors and crap calibrations. So, most everyone here at Cointalk is going to "see" my coin photos differently from me, and differently from one another, even if the original image I create is technically perfect. For that reason, there is very little value in wasting time getting your whitebalance, contrast, etc at 100% of ideal. 90% should probably be the goal, so that your coin photos are good-enough on the majority of monitors out there. Also, I have mild red-green color deficiency, and many others here have known and unknown color blindness, so even if everyone if the world has a perfect monitor, perfectly calibrated to a set color space (think sRGB), you CANNOT fix everyones eyes! Oh, the futility!