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<p>[QUOTE="johnmilton, post: 3708446, member: 101855"]The key for me is the expense of the set. A set of State Quarters has a hundred coins in it if you collect the Philadelphia and Denver Mint regular issues. If you add the clad Proofs, that’s another 50 coins and the silver Proofs add 50 more. After the prices for the 1999 and 2001 Proof sets settled down, the overall cost is not that bad.</p><p><br /></p><p>Of course, if you go nuts and decide that you want “registry quality” finest known coins in grades like MS-69 and 70, the price of the set can go through the roof. My response is “No way.”</p><p><br /></p><p>The Roosevelt Dimes are similar. I bought a set of the silver Roosevelt dimes as a set for less than $175. That is the cheapest way to go although not as much fun for some collectors. I bought a set in two old plastic holders that some collector had really been fussy about when he building it. There are some really pretty coins in it.</p><p><br /></p><p>When I look at the 19th century sets, like Seated anything, or Liberty gold anything, I look at the number coins, and the number better date coins, and I say “No way.” In addition I’d get bored in the middle in lose interest.</p><p><br /></p><p>I put together sets of the Classic Head $2.50 and $5.00 gold coins. If you collect only the “Red Book” listed coins, and not the die varieties, there are 11 $2.50 coins and eight $5 gold coins. Before you think that looks like a “push over,” there are the first Charlotte and Dahlonega gold coins in that set plus a couple of “sleeper dates” like the 1839-P quarter eagle which sells for a few to several thousand dollars in Ch AU and low end Mint State. Bottom line, it’s an expensive group of 19 coins, but if you are interested in the Andrew Jackson era of American history, it’s interesting.</p><p><br /></p><p>Before you start any set, you need to take a “Red Book” and run down the columns of the grades that interest you. The numbers are not precise, but it will tell you weather or not it’s a viable set for you. You will also have to decide if you can live without the coins that are beyond your reach. I spent 30 years collecting the early half dimes knowing that I would never complete the set because the 1802 half dime has always been beyond my reach.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="johnmilton, post: 3708446, member: 101855"]The key for me is the expense of the set. A set of State Quarters has a hundred coins in it if you collect the Philadelphia and Denver Mint regular issues. If you add the clad Proofs, that’s another 50 coins and the silver Proofs add 50 more. After the prices for the 1999 and 2001 Proof sets settled down, the overall cost is not that bad. Of course, if you go nuts and decide that you want “registry quality” finest known coins in grades like MS-69 and 70, the price of the set can go through the roof. My response is “No way.” The Roosevelt Dimes are similar. I bought a set of the silver Roosevelt dimes as a set for less than $175. That is the cheapest way to go although not as much fun for some collectors. I bought a set in two old plastic holders that some collector had really been fussy about when he building it. There are some really pretty coins in it. When I look at the 19th century sets, like Seated anything, or Liberty gold anything, I look at the number coins, and the number better date coins, and I say “No way.” In addition I’d get bored in the middle in lose interest. I put together sets of the Classic Head $2.50 and $5.00 gold coins. If you collect only the “Red Book” listed coins, and not the die varieties, there are 11 $2.50 coins and eight $5 gold coins. Before you think that looks like a “push over,” there are the first Charlotte and Dahlonega gold coins in that set plus a couple of “sleeper dates” like the 1839-P quarter eagle which sells for a few to several thousand dollars in Ch AU and low end Mint State. Bottom line, it’s an expensive group of 19 coins, but if you are interested in the Andrew Jackson era of American history, it’s interesting. Before you start any set, you need to take a “Red Book” and run down the columns of the grades that interest you. The numbers are not precise, but it will tell you weather or not it’s a viable set for you. You will also have to decide if you can live without the coins that are beyond your reach. I spent 30 years collecting the early half dimes knowing that I would never complete the set because the 1802 half dime has always been beyond my reach.[/QUOTE]
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