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***LEARNING About Matte Proof Lincolns***
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<p>[QUOTE="WingedLiberty, post: 1190597, member: 26030"]OK I took the plunge and bought this. The price was $1,375. There's a full 7-day money back return policy, so at least I get to examine the coin in hand before deciding if it's a keeper. I think I will drive it up to my local coin dealer and have them look it over when I get it in the mail (they've been in the business for 40 years and I trust them).</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH]124955.vB[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>I know this is a bit of a risk, but honestly I thought the coin looked really nice (very clean) and I loved the brick red-brown color. I actually thought it looked TOO GOOD, which is why I thought it might be artificially toned. If it is re-toned, whoever did it did a nice job. If it comes back from PCGS as "Genuine, Not Gradable", I probably have maybe $700 of potential downside. But could have some good upside if PCGS grades it. </p><p><br /></p><p>This was the original ad for the coin:</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH]124888.vB[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>I am hoping for a grade of PF65RB with this (I think it has a shot), but have to keep the possibility of a Genuine details grade in mind. I asked the seller why it wasnt graded, and this is what the seller said:</p><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: royalblue">"Thanks for your interest in my coins, and for asking all of these questions in advance. To help make sure I address every one of them, I'll answer them in order.</span></p><p> </p><ul> <li><span style="color: royalblue">I haven't sent this coin in for grading just because I don't feel like dealing with the headache. Every time I send a group of Lincolns in, it seems like I put out $300 and only a few of the coins grade out correctly. Then I have to send the rest back in again with another group to see PCGS grade them differently a second time around, still with at least half of the group having ridiculous results that often contradict the first opinion and make no sense to me. So a few years ago I just said the heck with it and decided to focus on mostly raw coins. I figure I can sell them for less than certified coins and let someone deal with getting them graded.<br /> </span></li> <li><span style="color: royalblue">One reason matte proof collectors like to buy them certified is because they want to make sure they are getting a matte proof and not a $50-$100 business strike. Many people cannot tell the difference themselves, and like to have the guarantee from a grading service. I happen to be one of the few dealers out there who actually use the microscopic diagnostics to identify matte proofs, rather than simply making the claim that "it must be one." These diagnostics--small areas of die polish and other mint-made imperfections--identify the proof dies and are definite evidence of a matte proof. These are the same diagnostics the people hired by grading services are taught to look for, and anyone can see them with proper magnification and lighting. </span></li> <li><span style="color: royalblue">If you bought the coin and submitted it to PCGS or any other grading service and it came back as a genuine matte proof, you are correct that it would not be returnable based on the grade or lack of a grade not meeting your expectations. I have no way of predicting or guaranteeing what PCGS will grade a given coin on a given day, and chances are it will grade 3 different ways if submitted 3 different times. </span></li> <li><span style="color: royalblue">I sell mostly raw coins. I usually have a slabbed coin or two in the mix. These are coins I received slabbed, since I don't deal with that process myself anymore.</span></li> <li><span style="color: royalblue">I have had this coin for about a year. I actually bought it from a gentleman from whom I bought one other 1912 matte proof. He was selling off coins that had been collected back in the 1940's and 1950's. The other 1912 was a rainbow toned one that ended up grading out as MS63 RB for my customer. It had a few spots and a large grainy area on the coin, and actually graded out about right. That shouldn't make for any guarantee that this one will also, but it should be nice to know. </span></li> <li><span style="color: royalblue">I'll also let you know that I personally think this coin is original. If I did not, I'd gladly mention it, as I did for the other 1912 MPL I have up for sale on my website. I don't like the idea of overgrading or hiding problems I am aware of. I want to have happy customers who come back and refer their friends, rather than trying to make a little more from one time sales. "<br /> </span></li> </ul><p>This stuff sure makes for an interesting drama! Thanks for all the feedback from coinguy and lkeigwin on this. I will let you all know what happens. Hopefully after all the false starts, this will be my first MPL.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="WingedLiberty, post: 1190597, member: 26030"]OK I took the plunge and bought this. The price was $1,375. There's a full 7-day money back return policy, so at least I get to examine the coin in hand before deciding if it's a keeper. I think I will drive it up to my local coin dealer and have them look it over when I get it in the mail (they've been in the business for 40 years and I trust them). [ATTACH]124955.vB[/ATTACH] I know this is a bit of a risk, but honestly I thought the coin looked really nice (very clean) and I loved the brick red-brown color. I actually thought it looked TOO GOOD, which is why I thought it might be artificially toned. If it is re-toned, whoever did it did a nice job. If it comes back from PCGS as "Genuine, Not Gradable", I probably have maybe $700 of potential downside. But could have some good upside if PCGS grades it. This was the original ad for the coin: [ATTACH]124888.vB[/ATTACH] I am hoping for a grade of PF65RB with this (I think it has a shot), but have to keep the possibility of a Genuine details grade in mind. I asked the seller why it wasnt graded, and this is what the seller said: [COLOR=royalblue]"Thanks for your interest in my coins, and for asking all of these questions in advance. To help make sure I address every one of them, I'll answer them in order.[/COLOR] [LIST] [*][COLOR=royalblue]I haven't sent this coin in for grading just because I don't feel like dealing with the headache. Every time I send a group of Lincolns in, it seems like I put out $300 and only a few of the coins grade out correctly. Then I have to send the rest back in again with another group to see PCGS grade them differently a second time around, still with at least half of the group having ridiculous results that often contradict the first opinion and make no sense to me. So a few years ago I just said the heck with it and decided to focus on mostly raw coins. I figure I can sell them for less than certified coins and let someone deal with getting them graded. [/COLOR] [*][COLOR=royalblue]One reason matte proof collectors like to buy them certified is because they want to make sure they are getting a matte proof and not a $50-$100 business strike. Many people cannot tell the difference themselves, and like to have the guarantee from a grading service. I happen to be one of the few dealers out there who actually use the microscopic diagnostics to identify matte proofs, rather than simply making the claim that "it must be one." These diagnostics--small areas of die polish and other mint-made imperfections--identify the proof dies and are definite evidence of a matte proof. These are the same diagnostics the people hired by grading services are taught to look for, and anyone can see them with proper magnification and lighting. [/COLOR] [*][COLOR=royalblue]If you bought the coin and submitted it to PCGS or any other grading service and it came back as a genuine matte proof, you are correct that it would not be returnable based on the grade or lack of a grade not meeting your expectations. I have no way of predicting or guaranteeing what PCGS will grade a given coin on a given day, and chances are it will grade 3 different ways if submitted 3 different times. [/COLOR] [*][COLOR=royalblue]I sell mostly raw coins. I usually have a slabbed coin or two in the mix. These are coins I received slabbed, since I don't deal with that process myself anymore.[/COLOR] [*][COLOR=royalblue]I have had this coin for about a year. I actually bought it from a gentleman from whom I bought one other 1912 matte proof. He was selling off coins that had been collected back in the 1940's and 1950's. The other 1912 was a rainbow toned one that ended up grading out as MS63 RB for my customer. It had a few spots and a large grainy area on the coin, and actually graded out about right. That shouldn't make for any guarantee that this one will also, but it should be nice to know. [/COLOR] [*][COLOR=royalblue]I'll also let you know that I personally think this coin is original. If I did not, I'd gladly mention it, as I did for the other 1912 MPL I have up for sale on my website. I don't like the idea of overgrading or hiding problems I am aware of. I want to have happy customers who come back and refer their friends, rather than trying to make a little more from one time sales. " [/COLOR] [/LIST] This stuff sure makes for an interesting drama! Thanks for all the feedback from coinguy and lkeigwin on this. I will let you all know what happens. Hopefully after all the false starts, this will be my first MPL.[/QUOTE]
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***LEARNING About Matte Proof Lincolns***
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