OK - I am about ready to start sorting.. Have a 1 1/2 dozen jars all labeled with the years that Seattlite86 and Amos811 suggested. I have a USB microscope (works awesome) a magnifying glass, a nice headband magnifier, and a bright LED light. Now the years that Seattlite86 did not mention: 1960-1962, 1964-1970, 1973-1979, 1981, 1985-1987, 1989-1991, 1993, 1994, 1996, 1997, 2001-2008, 2010 and beyond... are these just face value? should I look for anything in these? Should I just have a separate jar just for the copper ones including 1960-1962, 1964-1970, 1973-1979, 1981? Thanks!
read these to get an idea as to the decades and years to separate http://doubleddie.com/58243.html http://koinpro.tripod.com/ErrorVarietyList.htm http://www.varietyvista.com/index.htm https://conecaonline.org/glossary-of-error-variety-terms/
Okay, here's my typed list for home use. Do NOT search the coins you sort. Be patient. Just sort them. When you've sorted ALL coins, then you go back and look at each bin. The reason for this is it is MUCH easier to detect a difference after staring at the exact same spot for an hour or two. When you finally get to the searching with magnification, make sure you have a resource showing photos of the areas you're looking for. Great links have already been provided. Do NOT rush this. Haste makes waste. Don't rush to failure. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast. Take your pick, but don't rush! 1959 D/D/D 1960 D, small date, + large date RPM, DDO 1960 small date 1961-D RPM 1963-D DDO in 3 1964 DDR 1968-D DDR, + D/D 1969 S DDO 1970 S small date, + DDO, + RPM 1971 DDO 1972 DDO, 1972-S 1972 D DDO 1982 DDR E Pluribus Unum, 1982 small date copper D 1983 DDR “On”e Cent 1983 extra letters in obverse (look for scratches by IN and GOD 1984 DDO ear 1985 D/D 1987 D/D 1988 (reverse of 89) 1988 D (reverse of 89) 1992 CAM 1992D CAM 1993 WAM 1994 DDR pillars 1995 DDO Liberty date 1995 D DDO IGWT 1996 WAM 1998 WAM 1999 WAM 2000 WAM 2006 doubled ear All 2009 for DDRs
@NatedoggAZ What you find is that within a short time you will develop your own process for a quick initial inspect-obverse and the same inspect for the reverse. I start with the obverse in this order; date and mint mark, go left to the element(subject)for a quick 100% look over, left to the LIBERTY, then an upward clockwise spin around the top to inspect the IGWT. Flip and do a somewhat slower spin around the entire coin seeing letters, wheat ears each side finishing with the ONE CENT and below that the USOA. Anything OTHER than an apparent perfectly punched coin and (some that look right but need to be looked at again like key dates) I separate from the perfect looking ones.You will get a method and get quicker and keener the more you do it. Don't forget, it can look perfect but could have a tiny nuance like an RPM or a double ear so I expect to do the entire search over at least once more. If I try to do a full blow evaluation/date and mint mark glean/and also look for minor and major errors all at the same time, I most certainly have and will miss something. Quickness isn't exactly as important as details especially when searching for errors. Now I can do all of this in about 15-20 seconds per coin thanks to the microscope..trademarked: My Crazy Method
OK - I am now through 3 of the coffee cans... just sorting the pennies into separate jars as suggested. I have separate container for 1981 and earlier pennies that are not on the list provided by Seattlite86. I also have a separate container for the 1982 and later pennies that are not on the list as well. It was literally like opening up time capsules... The cans were taped closed when I first got them. Some of the cans had been sealed for over 25 years! Going back to that list.... past 2009 - is there anything from 2009-current that I should be separating as well? Thanks!
1960 D small date over large date. And if you are including the 1982-D small date copper, then any copper from 1983 and later. Of which more have been discovered than the 1 1982-D sd copper.