.00001 defect slab (which they fixed by the way) and that means not to use them? If you want to buy from the mint that's fine, I can't get seated material from the mint though. And yes every single coin besides robotic sealed moderns have been touched by bare hands before already
One word, sir... "dexterity". If you wish to ignore the potentially greater problems/issues gloves can cause in favor of something easily avoided with basic care, that's perfectly fine, but please don't post personal preference as if blanket fact.
@GDJMSP I appreciate your input and your post has given me a lot of food for thought. No disrespect by any means but I think you are taking my statements to the extreme. Again the post is for the occasion that I happen to come across a piece that falls into what I was describing. I expect nothing but hope for something.
I used Lincoln to cover all once cent pieces with his head on it. 1909 to present. I've started with them, a few jeffersons, peace dollars, large cent, Morgan, and mercs. I have a roll of wheats, mercy and peace dollars to crack open tonight. It feels like Christmas
Coming from an "Ex-Pert" that has been on the coining floor of all those mints! PS Take a look at some of the old photo ads inside the TPGS's. Guess what? They all had white gloves on it the photos! I know a bunch of them. Get it? And the Easter Bunny is on his way!
Not to interrupt this edifying discussion, but what would be the charge (just an estimate) to grade a 2016 MS67 RD cent?
I promise, I'm not. In point of fact I have but barely touched the surface. I merely used that 1 coin, a 2016 cent, as an example. But I can do the same thing with almost any modern coin. And there's much more to it than what I touched upon. For one thing do you have any idea of what would happen if you walked into most coin dealer shops with a handful of high grade slabbed modern coins and offered to sell them to them ? Do you know what they would say ? They'd look at you and say no thanks. They wouldn't even look at the coins. Now what's that tell ya ? That's all well and good. And I am not trying to discourage you from looking and hoping. By all means - look and hope to your heart's content ! I strongly encourage you to do so ! That is a BIG part of the enjoyment of the hobby. What I am trying to do is to get you to understand is, that in reality, you have almost no chance at all of doing what you are talking about with modern coins. And for a multitude of reasons. I was also trying to get you realize that ebay is practically worthless as a tool for estimating real world coin values. This is because the vast majority of ebay buyers haven't got a clue when it comes to buying coins. And because of that they not only overpay, sometimes they grossly overpay. There are however other places you can look to find valid price information, such as Heritage and other auction houses. And Heritage is the largest auction house there is for coins. They do almost a billion dollars worth of business a year. And if you do go look there you'll find some very interesting information. For example, that 2016 MS67 RD cent, this is what you'll find if you look there. (click on the picture to blow it up so you can read it) You'll notice that the prices aren't all over the map like they were on ebay, but quite close to each other, and all recent sales. And yes, they are worth more than the $40 you mentioned. But now look at the population numbers for them, what you'll see is that there are 30 of them. And if you scroll down the page and check the current pop numbers you'll find there are 33 of them now. And those 33, most of them were found by some of the best there are in the business. So that tells you what your chances of finding one would be like - slim to none. Now let's look at another modern Lincoln on Heritage, a 2014 this time. I found 2 examples of sales, same grade, same TPG. Look close, because you'll see that both of those sales were for a 2014-P and a 2014-D, both coins graded MS67 RD. And yet both coins combined sold for $16 and $20. What does that tell ya ? And if you look at other recent modern dates you'll find in some cases there are no recorded sales for MS67 RD coins. In others there are some, and they are various values according to their recorded sales, both above and below your $40 figure. And if you look for other denominations of the more recent modern coins in the high grades you can find some and others you won't find any. And their values range from under that $40 figure and over it. Again, the point being there's very dang few of these coins out there to begin with. So again, what are the odds of you finding one, when you don't know how to grade coins to begin with, and when you are wanting to get the coin at face value. Which means finding it either in circulation or in rolls that you buy. You see, there are several reasons why doing what you are hoping to accomplish is almost impossible for someone like you. Heck, it is beyond extremely difficult for people who do this for a living, people who have done it all their lives, the very best there are at doing it ! And I will repeat, I am NOT trying to discourage you. But I am trying to get you to understand the reality of the situation.
Modern tier, generally about $16 plus whatever percentage of shipping and handling it accounts for in the submission. Cheaper for a bulk submission
@GDJMSP i thank you again for your examples and input. You've made your point with the modern lincolns and, I guess, because of my wording and limited experience with the lingo I am not really conveying mine properly. It's not hard to crack a fresh roll of pennies from the bank, sort the ones that are shiney and have no scratches or wear or defect of any type then start staring at them and my photograde app. If that began to boil your blood turn the knob down a bit because I'm not done. What I just described is what I see is playing in your mind when you read my posts but it is far from where I'm at. If I used the term modern I meant anything with lincolns head on it or jeffersons head on it. To me anything less than 100 years is new (I'm a traditionalist) and I need to familiarize myself with what that means to coin heads before i start throwing words like that around. Again, as I consistently admitted throughout all posts and threads thus far, I am new to this hobby, know essentially nothing about it, am not envisioning myself swimming naked through benjamins and red lincolns in my living room, am willing to put forth time and effort to learn properly and become proficient at grading coins. I have a career and it pays well. I'm not trying to support myself and my son by cracking rolls and looking for our next meal ticket. I do, however, tend to find ways to have a hobby help support itself. Not entirely but assist in some way or another (that's the entrepreneur in me lunging out). And who knows. Maybe one day you'll see me writing an article in a magazine and I'll add in there "and if it wasn't for the collectors on CoinTalk sharing their knowledge and experiences when I started out I wouldn't be where I am now." I highly doubt that but hey, ya never know.
I use NGC. You can submit to NGC directly via ANA membership, or if you're submitting 7+ coins, it's actually cheaper to purchase the NGC Premium membership for $149 since you receive $150 in credit. There's also no minimum coin requirement anymore for economy tier, but you may still want to submit at least several coins per form due to shipping costs. Another benefit to using NGC (and PCGS for most US coins) is that there's definitely a noticeable premium paid by buyers for coins slabbed by these TPGs. So, if your tastes change or if you ever want to upgrade your newly slabbed coins, then you have a better chance of at least breaking even. Also, the more I look at ANACS grades, the more they appear accurately graded or at least comparable to many NGC / PCGS grades, with some discrepancies. Plus, much better pricing to boot. And, I buy raw the vast majority of the time, so slabbed isn't really a desired option for me unless the price is comparable to raw (mostly applies to slabbed moderns). So, you can say that I'm a huge believer of buying the coin and not the holder, literally. Case-in-point, you may get a semi-PL coin given the exact same grade as a typical business strike coin; but obviously, they're not the same aesthetically at all. Add toning and it's apples and oranges (in most cases, I've noticed that TPGs don't give star grades for colorful and "pretty" toning). As an aside, the entire philosophy of PCGS grading is for collectors/buyers/dealers to make transactions sight unseen. But, there's an inherent flaw with the current grading system when it comes to eye appeal and the aforementioned aesthetic qualities, which makes sight unseen purchases not always a great idea. Besides poor grading assignments, that is probably a large part of the reason why the saying, "Buy the coin and not the holder" exists. Just my 2 cents...
On the contrary, you're conveying yourself just fine. It's not that I don't understand, I do and all too well. I can say that because at one point in my life I was right where you are now. Granted, it was a long time ago, but that doesn't mean that I didn't go through the same things, have the same thoughts, same dreams. And I can safely say that the same is true of just about everybody here. We've all been there. Regarding the terminology, for US coins, as a general rule moderns are coins produced after 1964. Classic coins are those produced prior to that. Now some people may change the dates around a bit because of their own personal preferences and definitions, but as a general rule that's it. And just so ya know, it's actually easier, even thought it's not easy by any sense of the word, it is far easier to find high grade examples of moderns "in the wild" than it is to find even nice examples of classic coins "in the wild". And when I say in the wild I mean in circulation or in roll searching. Wait until you've been here a bit and you will see how seldom that happens. And there are 40,000 people looking just on this forum alone. What you'll see the most of is when people get excited when they managed to find a nice coin already graded and slabbed - and that goes for any coin. Ya see, nice coins aren't easy to find raw or slabbed. So when somebody does find one, yeah they get excited. If you were to go back and read the old posts here you'd even see where I got excited about a coin - on a regular basis. And even though I quit collecting 10 years ago, when I see a nice one posted here - I still get excited ! So yeah, I get it.
@GDJMSP I sure wish I had your patience, experience, and the time it takes you to reply and watch over this place - both for the old and new collectors. You should be a moderator...LOL. Thanks for the Heritage auction results. I had no idea. Might turn me into one of those coin roll hunters when I get a little older. In fact, I got some shiny new Lincolns in change at the store last night. I'm going to take a look after posting this. I'm sure some 68's must be out there! Only one problem, I'm too cheap to spend the money trying to get anything I may find certified!.
Thank you @iPen i saw the NGC membership while price comparing with other TPGs and wanted to check back to see what it was about. And I like what you said about buying the coin not the holder. Lingo question- what does PL stand for? Your 2 cents are always welcome
Ok thank you for the tip. Is that just because of the silver content dismissal or for another reason? And does that apply to all US coins after 64 or does it vary because of lack of silver or its silver quit date was prior i.e. after jeffs war nickels? I'm excited when I find a coin over average circ grade in a roll at this point lol. I was wondering one thing about the grading inaccuracy of the TPGs people have been mentioning on this thread... where do I find the standard from which all of this is done? If one is to accurately say a TPG graded a coin higher than actual...what are they comparing the TPGs results to? That's what I want to learn from. If PCGSs standard is off I don't want to get used to the photograde I'm using now because even when I'm getting good I'll be bad at it.
PL = Proof-Like And, I think others mentioned about buying the coin and not the holder, too. It's a very widely held position by many numismatists for a number of reasons.