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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;KurtS, post: 2261920, member: 11786&quot;]Took a good look at <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1888-7-PROMINANT-7-AFTER-LAST-8-INDIAN-HEAD-CENT-S-1-REAL-OVERDATE-/171981985808?hash=item280aecd810:g:TagAAOSwo0JWL-t0" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1888-7-PROMINANT-7-AFTER-LAST-8-INDIAN-HEAD-CENT-S-1-REAL-OVERDATE-/171981985808?hash=item280aecd810:g:TagAAOSwo0JWL-t0" rel="nofollow">this seller&#039;s coin</a>--I mean, it&#039;s gotta be the <b>the one</b>, right?&nbsp; Don&#039;t you see the 8/7?&nbsp; It&#039;s as <b>plain as day</b>... <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie27" alt=":bored:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/663/22536916972_50085f6200_b.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>I posted this <i>just for a laugh</i> and to talk about looking at errors and varieties. In cases like this, it&#039;s easy to see something that<b> isn&#039;t actually there</b>. Especially on a coin this corroded, the pitting and encrustation can take on shapes where our minds fill in the blanks.&nbsp; Even if this were the real 1888/7, you probably couldn&#039;t confirm it, and therefore it wouldn&#039;t have much value--if any.</p><p><br /></p><p>So I collect overdates, and I have &quot;a system&quot; for finding them. What that means...I look for <b>that one thing</b> that makes the variety stand out among a pool of prospective coins. In other words, I have to be able to see the markers <i>clearly enough</i> to even ask myself &quot;is this the real thing?&quot;.&nbsp; And if the coin lacks any of the markers <i>which must be there</i>, it <b>cannot </b>be the variety--simple as that.</p><p><br /></p><p>In the case of the Snow-1 1888/7 overdate, there is a primary marker that <b>must </b>be visible on every example, and a secondary marker that&#039;s usually used to confirm the overdate, present on most grades.</p><p><br /></p><p>Below is the primary marker on various certified examples. As you can see, the 8/7 can be blurred by wear, strike issues, or partially covered by dirt. But, it should be there.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7425/12915658043_80944df042_b.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>And since on every different 1888 IHC die, the date is in different spot (even slightly), the date position must match what&#039;s seen below <i>exactly</i>. This is a quick way to eliminate ~80% of the coins you&#039;re scanning. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/604/21928622504_d29ce74191_b.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>When you think you see something, this is where the secondary marker comes into play.&nbsp; There is a rim cud that is visible on all examples (except of course when the denticles are completely worn off).</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/769/22364313829_e684410bae_o.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Even knowing where to look, I haven&#039;t found one...yet. But maybe these pictures will help another collector spot one? Good luck! <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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