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Is this an example of market grading?
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<p>[QUOTE="medoraman, post: 2185336, member: 26302"]Everyone who doesn't know about them should do the same. Many old scratches get passed off as "adjustment marks" to uninformed collectors. Basically, an adjustment mark is on the flan before striking, so it should be deepest in the recesses and less or absent on high points. A scratch is just the opposite, it should be deepest on high relief but light or absent on low areas. Complicating this is wear, where an old scratch could get worn on high points. The trick here is to REALLY focus on the protected areas. If the mark is lighter in protected areas than non-protected ones, its a scratch, even if the scratch has been worn down on the highest points. An adjustment mark should be visible in the most protected areas, since it was on the metal before it was struck.</p><p> </p><p>Hopefully someone has a link with better explanation and pics for you.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="medoraman, post: 2185336, member: 26302"]Everyone who doesn't know about them should do the same. Many old scratches get passed off as "adjustment marks" to uninformed collectors. Basically, an adjustment mark is on the flan before striking, so it should be deepest in the recesses and less or absent on high points. A scratch is just the opposite, it should be deepest on high relief but light or absent on low areas. Complicating this is wear, where an old scratch could get worn on high points. The trick here is to REALLY focus on the protected areas. If the mark is lighter in protected areas than non-protected ones, its a scratch, even if the scratch has been worn down on the highest points. An adjustment mark should be visible in the most protected areas, since it was on the metal before it was struck. Hopefully someone has a link with better explanation and pics for you.[/QUOTE]
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Is this an example of market grading?
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