Discussion in 'What's it Worth' started by bruthajoe, Dec 3, 2019 at 4:01 PM.
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not safe to assume ANYTHING based on any price guide, because no price guide can include all the factors that affect a coin's value. A price guide won't tell you how damage or discoloration will affect a coin's price. It won't tell you what constitutes "good eye appeal", or how that will affect a coin's price.
It also won't tell you what you should expect to sell a coin for. It's more likely to say what a dealer will try to sell the coin for. If you sell it to a dealer, he'll obviously have to pay you less than that, because he needs to make a profit when he sells it.
At best, price guides can give you an idea of which coins are more or less valuable relative to others, and which ones go up sharply in higher grades. Example: in Good condition, an 1884 Morgan and an 1884-S Morgan list at the same price ($23). In MS60, the 1884 lists at $42, and the 1884-S lists at $9000.
...including knowing whether or not that one buyer who absolutely "has to have" that coin is even aware that it is posted, or where it is posted.
Now there are people who do collect coins with this amount of wear & I think yours would make an acceptable specimen (this coin was a warrior & has seen a lot of action/history). So if you market it well & maybe find several interested buyers, you should come out alright, but there really is no way to put an accurate potential value on this coin.
The further away you are from a "low ball" coin (G-4, for example), the easier it is to ascertain an approximate, realistic value (MS, for example).
If you *think* it's forever going to go up ... or plateau .. or go down ... then your purchase price would have a lot to do with whether it *was* a good investment 1, 5, 10 years down the road.
Numismatic bullion is also then based upon demand. So what would the demand be down the road. If you buy a "regular" commemorative, you'll pay a premium upon initial release. It seems, a lot of the "generic commemoratives" tend to float down to spot price in short order and all premiums paid are gone and it's now strictly bullion spot price based. Thus if you bought it upon release you now are dependent upon spot price shooting up and capturing all the premiums that were paid ... So it all depends.
retail prices -- what a dealer will sell the coin for -- and on the high side even for that. Again, to make money, a dealer has to buy at lower prices than that.
If you sell on eBay instead, you may do better, but you'll spend more time at it, and you'll lose 10% to eBay fees, 3% to PayPal fees, and whatever packaging and shipping costs you.
well I'm going to vote for raw precious coins as the best investment.
what is your definition for "precious" ?
Thanks Jeff. As far as selling on E-bay, I've considered it but as you mentioned it is a time consuming process and I do not have the time to list each coin and deal with running to post office for every sale. My other option would be to sell as a "LOT", which would only be interesting to a select few. I could sub catagorize but I just feel the urge to find a rep, coin dealer and establish an honest repoir with them. I'm not unfamiliar with overhead and would be fair in negotiating. I'm prepared to sell for content value.
90% silver gold but monetary, non nusmatic. Sorry that was a poor phrase.
dont forget the capital gains
That's in there somewhere. Lol
yeah. Most "bullion" people tend to not report capital gains on their taxes especially if it is under $10k. We've had threads about that in the past here.
Whereas if you trade stocks, etc or even Metal MF/ETFs those are automatically reported no matter how small and thus in your best interest to put them on your taxes.
I also left out the cost of "holding" those bullion coins.
Do you already own a safe (or are you hiding them under your mattress)? Or do you plan on buying one, which will have a one time fixed cost which you could calculate into the base price of each coin/ round/ bar you have.
Or are you going to use a Safe Deposit Box, which has an Annual (or Monthly) cost which you could add to the base price ?
Or is some company "holding" that for you which will have their own costs?
Insurance costs ?
Plus when you sell, you'll lose a bit of premium, etc.
Yes, very easy to overlook those things. I guess thats why I want to trade for gold, it takes less space, thing is bullion paperwork vs current sales tax laws on coins. getting very wishywashy with nit picky states crying there losing to online sales. boohoo poor things. but I think I'd still rather have coin than deal with the Bull.
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