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<p>[QUOTE="johnmilton, post: 4555828, member: 101855"]Unless you are into the registry game, I can’t see spending the extra money for very high grade (PR-70) certified Proof coins. For me the 69s and 68s work just as well. The silver Proofs are dirt cheep now, even the 1973-S, which used cost over $200, can now be found for under $20. </p><p><br /></p><p>The trouble is, a lot of the pieces in the original mint packaging have toned, and it’s often not pretty. The one advantage to slabbed coins is that the holder seems to do a good job at preserving the coin. </p><p><br /></p><p>The clad Proofs are also dirt cheap as part of the Proof sets. </p><p><br /></p><p>If I were collecting these coins, preservation is key. They seem to spot and tone rather easily. Slabbing or high quality albums are the solution.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="johnmilton, post: 4555828, member: 101855"]Unless you are into the registry game, I can’t see spending the extra money for very high grade (PR-70) certified Proof coins. For me the 69s and 68s work just as well. The silver Proofs are dirt cheep now, even the 1973-S, which used cost over $200, can now be found for under $20. The trouble is, a lot of the pieces in the original mint packaging have toned, and it’s often not pretty. The one advantage to slabbed coins is that the holder seems to do a good job at preserving the coin. The clad Proofs are also dirt cheap as part of the Proof sets. If I were collecting these coins, preservation is key. They seem to spot and tone rather easily. Slabbing or high quality albums are the solution.[/QUOTE]
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