If you're posting pics of slabs ...

I think if you have scratches, or 'hazing' in the plastic, you probably could not turn the plastic to any angle , to overcome the light beam being broken.

(I think even if you could rotate the slab in perfect 3D to counter the 'breakage' of the light beam, you couldn't do it fast enough to equal the speed of the light)

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I really think Mr. Q , that a thin film of wax would be harmless - even given that the slabs aren't air-tight ....... But a tissue with a bi-polar substance (soap) , BLOTTED thereon, would remove wax (and re-reveal) scratching / hazing).

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ed.:
One by definition could not rotate an object in 3D fast enough, because light is 1D (even tho' light has mass AND energy) (too much thinkin' ; mods - lock this one lol)

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2 ed.:
YES HALE !!!
You COULD rotate the slab, for an almost infinite # of pics, AND THEN DO A COMPOSITE PHOTO-CHOP !
(someone said change focus (for 1 shot) ; nope - single focal plane is still going through light-breaking surface )

 

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I'm wondering that if you chose to use an oil on a slab to enhance a photo, what harm would it do to leave the oil or wax on the slab? But I guess if you feel it would cause long-term harm to the slab and an oil had to be removed, it seems nail polish or acetone would work.

 

Make sense to me, thank you!

 

ed.:
DUH - the technology already exists.

Computerized Axial Tomography - CAT Scan.

(I'm slow sometimes) (other times, I'm asleep)

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2 ed.:
HaleiwaHI - you just helped me invent something !

(problem is , IT'S ALREADY BEEN INVENTED grrr ..... )

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3 ed.:
Nail Polish and Acetone are 2 hydrocarbons that WILL solve (but not DISSOLVE) polycarbonate (if again, slabs are made of PC).

 

Just in case anyone is interested , CAT Scanning would be good for detecting fake coins (as well as Magna-Fluxing).

It's interesting stuff - like PET Scanning, MRI, and my favorite - fMRI !

Functional MRI scans, when read by right person, will tell with high likelihood, what task you are doing - be it a digital (hand / finger), optical (OCC cortical task), even some course motor tasks.

If you were shooting a rifle, aiming, 1 eye closed, fMRI would show that.

But we digress - apologies mods / admin

 

*iggy

 

Ok - I give ; what does *iggy mean ?

I'm certain it's not a smart-a55 comment, since you just witnessed a VERY high-tech invention, AND THE fast cognitive processes involved therein (granted, as noted, the tech already does exist).

So ... ?

(and I know * means 'all-inclusive' in some computer coding languages)

 

Don't think I ever saw a fingerprint on oil.

 

Immersion oil is used when microscopes are used at high power in order to increase the resolution. The lens is actually immersed in the immersion oil (imagine that) so, I'm not sure what you would do with a slab.

 

I'm waiting coincorgi ...

My posts in this thread are documented testimony of a billion dollar technology, that I've conceived.

Again, I grant that it already exists, and my thinking is crystal clear.

And you can see by time-stamped posts, that my thinking was absolutely independent of existing tech.

I don't care for a bow, or for $$. I DO care for an explanation of ' *iggy ' , IN THE PRESENSE OF SOMEONE OF MY LIKE.

 

There is a compound called "Polywatch Plastic Lens Scratch Remover" which is great for reducing the appearance of scratches in a variety of plastic products.

It is not an oil, but a cream polish. Apply it as per directions, clean it off, and there is no chance it will affect the coin inside.

It's very cheap and can be found on Amazon. I have one single slabbed coin but the plastic isn't scratched enough to warrant a treatment.

https://www.amazon.com/Polywatch-Plastic-Lens-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0014R9V9O

 

There are many compounds hotwheelsearl, that will 'facilitate' light transmission through a [any ? ] medium (slab plastic) ; some better (and longer-lasting) than others.

And with popularity of 'GTG THREADS', perhaps members here could hit the zero more often ... ?

 

This product, and others I know of are very fine abrasives which you can use to buff out any scratches. Are you thinking of something to paint on a slab?

 

Absolutely no, on abrasives Kentucky.

Many years ago, I spent 9 - 10 weeks, 4 hrs / day , 4-5 times a week, polishing a Black vette BY HAND.
(my t-shirts fit differently after this time )

Sections @ a time, 1 x with 2,000 grit, 3 x with Rubbing Compound, 3 x ++++, with Polishing Compound, to achieve 'sheeted-water' finish. I did.

I DID during that time, contact research and development @ 2 companies, about making a polishing compound, that would 'solve' BRIEFLY factory finish (slightly different than polycarbonate) to facilitate 'orange peel' removal.

It had already been researched. Liability was the concern...

ed.:
hotwheelsearl - there is a HUGE difference between levelling out [slab] material with abrasives, as opposed to just 'filling in', with wax / oil , for purposes of taking pics.

I would surely take the easier route, even tho' personally, I'd be fearless about chemical damage to a coin within.

Just me tho'.......

 

Not coin related at all. But you polished a vette by hand you say? I have a old Jeep Cherokee in wonderful shape except for some portions where the paint has seen some better days. What are my DIY options to even it out?

 

Wow Earl - my '78 Cherokee Chief I LOVED. Best 4 WD system there is (in theory). You could have 3 wheels in air, and 4rth would drive the vehicle (long as motor vacuum was sufficient).

I'd presume that if PRIMER is NOT corroded to metal, then GENTLY smooth the surface IN REVERSE ORDER - Polishing Compound (MANY TIMES), and if you don't achieve smooth surface, maybe once more ?

Then if necessary, Rubbing Compound, then BACK to Pol. Cmpd. Lotta' work, but it does pay !

But again, to try to stay on topic, I'd use oil or wax to 'clean' a surface ; prepping a slab for pics ain't that much different than paint prep on a vehicle.......

ed.:
EXCEPT FOR SILICONE - a painter's nightmare. It makes stuff shine nice (armor all on tires), even oxidized finishes, but prevents [paint] bonding, to n*th degree !!!

 

Thanks! It's a lovely '94 Cherokee Country with fresh new tires as of yesterday

Back on topic, I suppose it depends if you want a relatively permanent slab surface, or a "spot-treatment" for photographs.

I suspect a dollop of oil would be dense enough to seep into the scratches and temporarily even them out for a good photo. I will have to dig out my one single slab (1964 25c MS64? i think) for a test. Stay tuned in the next several days...

 

Let me guess what you said, blakesley effect?

 

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