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<p>[QUOTE="19Lyds, post: 986925, member: 15929"]Spotting counterfeits can be easy if they are of the typical quality coming out of China. Simply check out the fields around the devices.</p><p>If you see little bumps of metal, then its a phoney!</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/IKEs/1971S%20Counterfeit/90318-DSC06963W.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>Inspect where the field meets the rim. Other than die scratches or chips, the areas should meet cleanly. If they don't, it's probably a counterfeit.</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/IKEs/1971S%20Counterfeit/IKE1971-SCounterfeit-07W.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>The "typical" Chinese counterfeit will lack any "refined" detail. In the photos below, make note of the "pitted" appearance of the devices as well as the numerous "bumps" in the fields.</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Morgan/Counterfeit/002.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>Even under 10x, this is obvious!</p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Morgan/Counterfeit/003.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>Make note of the overall "grainyness" of the surfaces.</p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Morgan/Counterfeit/006.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>A US Mint product, regardless of wear will NOT appear so grainy.</p><p> </p><p>One last thought, some US Mint coins were minted with "rusty" dies. The only example I have is this 1970-D Kennedy.</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Kennedy/Misc/1970-D/DSC07338W.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Kennedy/Misc/1970-D/DSC07336W.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>However, the entire die surface is not affected and most of the other devices appear crisp.</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Kennedy/Misc/1970-D/DSC07335D.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>Note the metal flow lines but lack of grainyness around the "D".</p><p> </p><p><img src="http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Kennedy/Misc/1970-D/DSC07339D.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>In cases like the 1970-D (this coin came out of a sealed US Mint Set) its best to ask questions "BEFORE" laying out any money.</p><p> </p><p>The coins illustrated above, are simply not that high a quality of counterfeit but from what I've heard, there are much better examples out there.</p><p> </p><p>So, what can you do?</p><p>1. If its looks too good to be true, it probably isn't.</p><p>2. Know what a genuine US coin is supposed to look like. The qualifty never changes. (except for the 2010 Mint Sets but thats a different story)</p><p>3. <u>Never</u> pay cash money to a stranger thats offering the "too good to be true" deal. Get some type of identification. If they are unwilling, then pass since they obviously have more to hide than they are willing to share. Especially if it involves thousands of dollars!</p><p>4. Never buy raw coins off of eBay if you are in the least bit unsure. If you do, be prepared to go though the NAD process and just hope you get your money back.</p><p>5. Always seek professional opinions BEFORE buying an expensive coin. For what most folks on these forums collect, another one WILL come along.</p><p>6. If you are still lost, buy the "Official Guide to Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection" and READ IT or sign up for and take the ANA Counterfeit Detection classes at summer ANA.</p><p>7. Arm yourself with the knowledge that counterfeit "replica" coins DO exist and you'd better examine each coin carefully before purchasing.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="19Lyds, post: 986925, member: 15929"]Spotting counterfeits can be easy if they are of the typical quality coming out of China. Simply check out the fields around the devices. If you see little bumps of metal, then its a phoney! [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/IKEs/1971S%20Counterfeit/90318-DSC06963W.jpg[/IMG] Inspect where the field meets the rim. Other than die scratches or chips, the areas should meet cleanly. If they don't, it's probably a counterfeit. [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/IKEs/1971S%20Counterfeit/IKE1971-SCounterfeit-07W.jpg[/IMG] The "typical" Chinese counterfeit will lack any "refined" detail. In the photos below, make note of the "pitted" appearance of the devices as well as the numerous "bumps" in the fields. [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Morgan/Counterfeit/002.jpg[/IMG] Even under 10x, this is obvious! [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Morgan/Counterfeit/003.jpg[/IMG] Make note of the overall "grainyness" of the surfaces. [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Morgan/Counterfeit/006.jpg[/IMG] A US Mint product, regardless of wear will NOT appear so grainy. One last thought, some US Mint coins were minted with "rusty" dies. The only example I have is this 1970-D Kennedy. [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Kennedy/Misc/1970-D/DSC07338W.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Kennedy/Misc/1970-D/DSC07336W.jpg[/IMG] However, the entire die surface is not affected and most of the other devices appear crisp. [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Kennedy/Misc/1970-D/DSC07335D.jpg[/IMG] Note the metal flow lines but lack of grainyness around the "D". [IMG]http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u8/lcl1119/Kennedy/Misc/1970-D/DSC07339D.jpg[/IMG] In cases like the 1970-D (this coin came out of a sealed US Mint Set) its best to ask questions "BEFORE" laying out any money. The coins illustrated above, are simply not that high a quality of counterfeit but from what I've heard, there are much better examples out there. So, what can you do? 1. If its looks too good to be true, it probably isn't. 2. Know what a genuine US coin is supposed to look like. The qualifty never changes. (except for the 2010 Mint Sets but thats a different story) 3. [U]Never[/U] pay cash money to a stranger thats offering the "too good to be true" deal. Get some type of identification. If they are unwilling, then pass since they obviously have more to hide than they are willing to share. Especially if it involves thousands of dollars! 4. Never buy raw coins off of eBay if you are in the least bit unsure. If you do, be prepared to go though the NAD process and just hope you get your money back. 5. Always seek professional opinions BEFORE buying an expensive coin. For what most folks on these forums collect, another one WILL come along. 6. If you are still lost, buy the "Official Guide to Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection" and READ IT or sign up for and take the ANA Counterfeit Detection classes at summer ANA. 7. Arm yourself with the knowledge that counterfeit "replica" coins DO exist and you'd better examine each coin carefully before purchasing.[/QUOTE]
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