Message:

<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Silverlock, post: 7692722, member: 98181&quot;]You lose so much not having the coin in hand. For example, IF 11 o’clock on the obverse is 5 o’clock on the reverse then it’s a tilted strike. Generally that might weigh in the authentic column. Other things being equal fakers tend to prefer evenly struck examples as source coins. This coin is common enough a faker needn’t use an imperfect example. What the reverse rotation angle is can’t be determined from the photos. In hand would answer that.</p><p><br /></p><p>As far as tooling/smoothing goes, again, hard to be certain from a photo. The fabric looks uneven: rough in some areas and smooth in others? Some letters look perhaps recut? A loupe would answer those questions.</p><p><br /></p><p>One thing I’m reasonably confident of is IF the coin is authentic then the coin has been stripped and repatinated. The patina is too uniform for a corroded coin. Corrosion by-products of copper-rich coins tend to be of the malachite (green), azurite (blue), cuprite (orange/red) range of colors. There aren’t any copper minerals I’m aware of that are battleship gray. Unless that’s a false color photo. Again, answerable in hand.</p><p><br /></p><p>Doctored real coin or fake are the same thing in my book: Avoid.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

Your name or email address:

Do you already have an account?

• No, create an account now.
• Yes, my password is:
• Forgot your password?

Stay logged in