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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;CBJesse, post: 1829616, member: 40089&quot;]Not problem, I love talking about the attribution process. Here are the steps I took to attribute the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>1) Make a list of all die marriages with a similar T-I position, in this case, the following were listed, O-102, O-112, O-117, O-118, O-119, O-116, O-108, and O-114.</p><p>2) Begin to eliminate die marriages that do not match the characteristics of the coin in question, for this you can use date position, S7 to Cap position, star to dentil position, A-A relation, C to stem relation and others. After a few minutes, I had it down to O-118 and O-119.</p><p>These die marriages share an obverse (and these are the only two using this obverse die), so the first thing I did was confirm the obverse die using star to dentil positions and the date positions relative to the other numerals as well as the dentils. I then had it confirmed as Obverse 11 and all I needed to do was decide whether it was Reverse M, N or neither ( in this case, I would have to restart the process).</p><p>3) I began comparing Reverse N to your coin and found differences, particularly in the C to stem and letter to dentil positions.</p><p>4) At this point, I had it down to O-118 but I had to confirm, so I compared characteristic of your example with know examples of the die marriage and the characteristics (letters, scroll, A-A, C to stem, denomination), matched up. Then I check the letters to make sure they lined up with the dentils correctly and they did. To be absolutely positive, it would need to be in hand, but from what I can see in the picture I believe it is an O-118.</p><p><br /></p><p>About 2 and 4 in your post, this is where you have to be careful about the Overton work, while it is a great reference work and Overton was a great researcher, there is still much room for improvement.</p><p>In references like Federal Half Dimes and Early United States Dimes, you&#039;ll notice that there is a description for the die marriage followed by a separate section, where the die cracks, breaks, chips, etc. that occurred on the die are described in the order that they occurred. This is how it should be, in my opinion, because stars, letters, dentils, etc will always be in the same place, but die cracks and the like may or may not be present due to the die state and lapping. Though, it would be a gargantuan task, considering the sheer number if CBH die marriages. This is why when Overton mentions a&nbsp; die crack or&nbsp; die lines/ scratches, it must be taken with a grain of salt because the piece you have may have been struck using those pair of dies but before the die crack occurred or because it is a light die crack it may have worn off.</p><p><br /></p><p>I would check for the die crack, when you get the piece in hand, it may just not be visible in the picture. It would certainly help to confirm the die marriage of the piece if it was present.</p><p><br /></p><p>Good luck on your collection of Busties, it is a great series with lots to be learned and plenty to do!</p><p><br /></p><p>Jesse[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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