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<p>[QUOTE="sylvester, post: 56311, member: 708"]Well if i was focusing on modern coins like Mercury Dimes then i could personally not live with coins less than EF. Admittedly this grade bias comes from the fact i was reaered on UK coins of that period which aren't half as pricey in EF or UNC grades. Heck i was attempting 20th century sixpences all dates in BU nothing less. But US coins are far more expensive, but i've been brought up to see EF coins of the 20th century as the absolute minimum. It's hard to change that habit now.</p><p><br /></p><p>Maybe it's just me but i don't like coins that lack detail, i ditched my 17th/18th sixpence collection because i'd bought some substandard coins (i.e low VF's instead of high VF's) thus i thought, well i'm gonna have to upgrade about a third of what i've got, that and the overall 'look' of the set wasn't as uniform as i'd like. Thus i got disheartened and sold every last one of them.</p><p><br /></p><p>With Mercury dimes my general approach (and with most US coins), is to pick the common mint, most often P mint and just do a date run of P mint coins because it's cheaper and allows me to more realistically focus on the higher grades i like. You can also axe all the minor varieties such as overdates which also saves money!</p><p><br /></p><p>Or conversely you could pick the mint that didn't run as long in an series, often S mint in the US that i've seen, but these are usually dearer! Although looking through the Redbook the S mint Mercs don't look too bad.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Some may know i'm currently working on a Nazi Germany 5 reichspfennig date set and i want them all in UNC/BU condition (which is tough), but because i'm focusing just on the Berlin (A) mint, it means there's only a handful to get anyhow.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="sylvester, post: 56311, member: 708"]Well if i was focusing on modern coins like Mercury Dimes then i could personally not live with coins less than EF. Admittedly this grade bias comes from the fact i was reaered on UK coins of that period which aren't half as pricey in EF or UNC grades. Heck i was attempting 20th century sixpences all dates in BU nothing less. But US coins are far more expensive, but i've been brought up to see EF coins of the 20th century as the absolute minimum. It's hard to change that habit now. Maybe it's just me but i don't like coins that lack detail, i ditched my 17th/18th sixpence collection because i'd bought some substandard coins (i.e low VF's instead of high VF's) thus i thought, well i'm gonna have to upgrade about a third of what i've got, that and the overall 'look' of the set wasn't as uniform as i'd like. Thus i got disheartened and sold every last one of them. With Mercury dimes my general approach (and with most US coins), is to pick the common mint, most often P mint and just do a date run of P mint coins because it's cheaper and allows me to more realistically focus on the higher grades i like. You can also axe all the minor varieties such as overdates which also saves money! Or conversely you could pick the mint that didn't run as long in an series, often S mint in the US that i've seen, but these are usually dearer! Although looking through the Redbook the S mint Mercs don't look too bad. Some may know i'm currently working on a Nazi Germany 5 reichspfennig date set and i want them all in UNC/BU condition (which is tough), but because i'm focusing just on the Berlin (A) mint, it means there's only a handful to get anyhow.[/QUOTE]
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